The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Thus, in so simple a matter as the pumpkin-pie, which one occasionally
meets in the southern and southwestern shires, it is hardly surprising
that it is held in slight estimation when one reflects that the
material is cut up in pieces, and then, with half apple and half
pumpkin, a pie is made similar to the ordinary English apple-pie, and
this in a climate where a pumpkin of good quality may not be grown out
of doors. Contrary to general opinion, pumpkin-pie is not an American
but an old English dish improved upon by the New England housewife.
Three hundred years ago, when known as the "pompion," they were made
into pies by cutting a hole in the side, extracting the seeds and
filaments, stuffing the cavity with apples, and baking the whole.
The nectarine, peach, and apricot, as raised under glass in England
or grown as espaliers in favoured localities, are always superior,
while the glass-grown "pine" nowhere else reaches such perfection.
Superlative, too, is the glass-grown muskmelon--netted, ribbed,
and laced; spherical, oval, and globe-shaped; green-fleshed and
scarlet-fleshed; and melting, juicy, and delicious. But some will ask,
what can be more delectable than the scented orange-scarlet flesh of
our own "Surprise," or the Hymettus sweetness that is hived beneath
the wattled ribs of the little "Green Nutmeg"? The watermelon, with
its great, luscious, rosy core, like corn and the sweet potato and its
varieties, is not to be grown in England.
Of hardy fruits America is the chosen home, unless it be of the grape
for wine-making, wherein France reigns supreme. And of all districts
where soil and climate unite to second the skill of the horticulturist,
there is perhaps none in which nearly all the finer species and
varieties of fruit attain such superiority, combined with keeping
qualities, as in the smiling garden of the Empire State--the Genesee
Valley of New York. Excellent fruits are raised in France and southern
Germany, but only to a limited extent compared with our own country. To
the French we are indebted for many of the finest varieties of pears,
though these are rarely seen in France itself. Fruit in Europe is
always dear and often difficult to obtain. Yet in the noted Parisian
restaurants it is a rare occurrence when one cannot obtain a couple of
peaches for twenty-five francs, or revel in a melon for thirty, much
the same as pineapples may be obtained in London at a guinea apiece.
It will readily be conceded that the fish and meats of the French and
Germans are usually much inferior to those of the English--the veal of
Germany and the Pré-Salé mutton of France excepted. But, unlike the
continentals, the English fail to make the most of their opportunities
and better materials. A contemporaneous English writer thus alludes to
the state of cookery and this lack of progress in his own country:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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