The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Curaçoa, it is said, was discovered by a French _chanoine_, and the
aroma of the wild cherry imprisoned in Maraschino by an Italian
_frate_. A German _Pfarrer_, it is averred, first dissolved gold in the
_eau de vie de Dantzig_, and through a Spanish _sacerdote_ is said to
have come _Santa Cruz_, the rum of the Holy Cross. In the quest for the
elixir of life the monastery became the great alembic of liqueurs, the
study of essences, spirits, and distillations varying with the labour
of illuminating missals and the routine of religious devotions. During
the thirteenth century Arnaud de Villeneuve formulated the question of
the elixir of life in these terms, which became a dogma for all his
monastic successors: "This is the secret, viz., to find substances so
homogeneous to our nature that they can increase it without inflaming
it, continue it without diminishing it, ... as our life continually
loses somewhat, until at last all is lost." The outcome of the
patient labours of these religious alchemists was numerous elixirs
and liqueurs, of which the secret composition was transmitted from
generation to generation in convents and monasteries. These liqueurs
were in their origin simply a pharmaceutic product; it is only
within a comparatively short time that they have been converted into
after-dinner _douceurs_.
Every useful art, however, must find perfection of expression sooner or
later, notably an art which is a necessity and which likewise appeals
to the lawful gratification of the senses. And if cookery was fostered
by the cloisters of Europe, and reached its zenith during the early
part of the past century in Paris, it is equally true that at no time
in the history of the world has it attained such general excellence as
at present.
But let the religious orders and the priesthood be credited with their
full share in its advancement. They are no exception to the generality
of mankind in being blessed with appetites, but they are sufficiently
intelligent to recognise that in a well-appointed cuisine there exist
both a prophylactic to ennui and the best of pharmacopœias. Let
the spit turn merrily, therefore, and the carp fatten in their ponds;
let the flower of the vine and the pressings of the grape distil for
them their fragrance; let them repeat their paternosters and chant in
concert their penitential psalms:
"1. One herring and one herring make two herrings,
Two herrings and one herring make three herrings.
"2. Three herrings and one herring make four herrings,
Four herrings and one herring make five herrings.
"3. Five herrings and one herring make six herrings."
. . . . . . . . . .
And so on up to a hundred herrings.
"From salted, red, or smoked herrings, _libera nos_, _Domine_;
From cold water as a beverage, _libera nos_, _Domine_.
_A- a- a- amen!_"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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