The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"The first course was rather miscellaneous, varying with the
season, though marrow-puddings always formed a part of it; the
second never varied and consisted exclusively of beefsteaks.
As the judges relieved each other, it was impracticable for
them to partake of both; but a little chaplain whose duty it
was to preside at the lower end of the table was never absent
from his post. This invaluable public servant persevered
from a sheer sense of duty till he had acquired the habit of
eating two dinners a day, and practised it for nearly ten
years without any perceptible injury to his health. We had
the pleasure of witnessing his performance at one of the five
o'clock dinners, and can assert with confidence that the
vigour of his attack on the beefsteaks was wholly unimpaired
by the effective execution a friend assured us he had done on
them two hours before."
The last communication from the Rev. Sydney Smith to Canon Barham,
better known as Thomas Ingoldsby, related to gastronomy, with the
ethics of which he was so conversant, the canon having just sent him a
pannier of pheasants.
"Many thanks, my dear sir, for your kind present of game," wrote the
appreciative recipient. "If there is a pure and elevated pleasure in
this world, it is that of roast pheasant and bread-sauce; barn-door
fowls for dissenters, but for the real churchman, the thirty-nine times
articled clerk, the pheasant! the pheasant!"
Why the witty rector of Combe-Florey declared that when he found
himself seated next to a bishop at a dinner-party he became so nervous
that he could do nothing but crumble his bread, and when his place
adjoined that of an archbishop he crumbled it with both hands, seems
inexplicable, unless it had been his mischance to encounter among his
superiors in office more accomplished epularians than himself. Besides
his celebrated poetical recipes for a salad, which are presented in a
following chapter, his less familiar "Receipt to Roast Mutton" may not
be omitted from references to ecclesiastic good cheer:
"Gently stir and blow the fire,
Lay the mutton down to roast,
Dress it quickly, I desire,
In the dripping put a toast,
That I hunger may remove--
Mutton is the meat I love.
"On the dresser see it lie;
Oh! the charming white and red;
Finer meat ne'er met the eye,
On the sweetest grass it fed:
Let the jack go swiftly round,
Let me have it nicely brown'd.
"On the table spread the cloth,
Let the knives be sharp and clean,
Pickles get and salad both,
Let them each be fresh and green.
With small beer, good ale, and wine,
O ye gods! how I shall dine!"
Canon Barham, no less than Sydney Smith, wielded a valiant spoon, and
to the unpunctual at dinner he has delivered one of his most forcible
sermons in "The Lay of St. Cuthbert":
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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