The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"Des escaliers du temps de la serrurerie,
Larges, la rampe en fer, ouvragés, bien dallés,
Donnant sur un cour propre à la rêverie.
"Maison Laveur! hier, c'était là qu'attablés
Devant la soupe aux choux, nous guettions, mon Lemoyne,
La petite servante aux rougeurs de pivoine."
The student of Glatigny, who must always admire the rhythm and melody
of his Muse, will also remember his quaint sonnet published in "Gilles
et Pasquins," entitled "Monselet devoured by the Lobsters." The
works of Henri Murger are replete with epulary sketches of the old
Latin Quarter of Paris, a district from which Victor Hugo has also
drawn. Théodore de Banville has likewise depicted many a picturesque
restaurant scene in his airy "Odes Funambulesques." The lyrists, too,
have not been unmindful of the poetry of the kitchen.
Many visitors to Paris will remember dining at Bignon's, and doubtless
will equally recall the figures of the _addition_. Of this restaurant,
whose carte was devoid of prices, it was said that a man who dined at
the corner table for a period of years became a cosmopolite--in every
capital of Europe he would be recognised and fêted; for that matter, he
did not need to rise from his chair, as all Europe would pass in review
before him.
A provincial dining there in April, on perceiving melons on the card,
ordered one. "What!" he exclaimed, after examining his bill, "thirty
francs for a melon! You are joking!"
"Monsieur," replied Bignon, "if you can find me three or four at the
same price, I will buy them immediately."
"Fifteen francs for a peach?" inquired Prince Narischkin; "they must be
very scarce."
"It isn't the peaches that are scarce, _mon prince_; it is the
Narischkins."
"Monsieur Bignon, a red herring at two and a half francs! It seems to
me that is excessive."
"But these prices are marked in your interest," rejoined the
restaurateur. "It is the barrier I have established between my clients
and the vulgar. Why do you come here? To be among yourselves, to avoid
embarrassing or compromising surroundings. If I changed my prices, the
house would be invaded, and you would all leave."
Another patron who complained of a sauce was asked, "Did you dine here
last evening?"
"No," he replied.
"That is the trouble, then; you spoiled your taste in the other
restaurant."
Still another guest objected to the charges on his bill, comparing it
with an identical breakfast of a few days previous which amounted
to eighteen and a half francs, whereas the breakfast in question was
charged twenty-one francs, eighty centimes.
"I will investigate the mistake," said Bignon, who, with the two bills,
proceeded to the desk, returning shortly afterwards.
"It is very true, Monsieur, that a mistake was made in your favour last
Monday; but I make no claim for restitution!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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