The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
A well-made bread-sauce, an accessory which we owe to England, always
accords with quail and grouse, and is not amiss with prairie-chicken,
even if they are already well moistened with the sauce of cooking them
with pork and basting with bouillon. Francatelli's delicious sauce,
Number 65, the recipe for which has been presented in a previous
chapter, will need no recommendation as an adjunct for venison and
mutton where it has once been enjoyed. Apple-sauce is indispensable
with the domestic duck, and boiled onions should not be omitted by way
of a vegetable accompaniment. _Canard saignant_ is reprehensible, and
equally so is the overdone bird. A wildling should be fresh and sweet,
and "passed through the kitchen" not "once," but thrice; the domestic
fowl will, of course, be allowed more time on the range to plume
himself for the table. The celery-fed bird (_O avis jucundissima!_)
calls for no other sauce than his own, but with some species a stuffing
of olives and an olive sauce are excellent additions. Then, if your
bins of _têtes de cuvée_ of the Vosne be not lacking, you may hear your
whistler simply praying to be engulfed in Richebourg or Romanée.
The wild turkey, the "spruce-partridge," and the "cottontail" will
prove more desirable subjects for the seasonings and provocative sauces
of the French cookery books than their more princely companions. The
wild turkey, notably, despite his splendid wattles and emerald plumage,
it must be conceded cannot compare with the tamer fowl in edible
qualities; and it were well, where a stately gobbler has been sent as
the result of the prowess of a friend, to dispense at once with his
drumsticks, which, owing to his roving habits and wide ranging, have
become tougher than the ham-strings of a patriarchal sage-cock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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