The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
In its relation to wine, the maturity of game should be taken into
consideration; as, for example, with dark-fleshed birds that are
comparatively fresh, a fine Bordeaux; with those that are more matured,
and particularly duck, the warmer and more generous red vintages of
the Côte d'Or and the Côte du Rhône. For a well-hung prairie-chicken,
a red wine will naturally be selected; for a "partridge" that inclines
to freshness, either champagne or Bordeaux, Burgundy or a Deidesheimer
_Auslese_ may serve for a bath with equally good results. But game is
too often undeservedly treated and served at the end of a dinner of
numerous courses, when, whatever its merit or that of its accompanying
wine, the palate and appetite are in scant mood to appreciate it.
With the advent of the autumnal equinox the calendar of seasonable
sport begins. There is then an exhilaration in the air that
irresistibly invites to out-of-door exercise and an exploration of the
covers. Game is then matured, fleet of foot and strong of wing; and at
no other period do upland and vale present such varied attractions.
September is the true adagio of sport, October and November the
allegro, and December the diminuendo. For pure sylvan beauty, no
month may compare with October, when the torch of autumn kindles
the woodlands into living flame, although the dreamy Indian summer
possesses a charm that is matched only by May when she rolls away the
resurrection-stone. Then when the purple landscape lies hushed in
slumber, one may recall anew the forgotten ode of an unknown bard, in
whose haunting cadences are subtly expressed all the rest and peace
and rhythm, all the tone, the tenderness, and benediction, of the
latter-year:
I.
Nothing stirs the stillness save a leaf that slowly rustles down,
Dim, through sunny mists the trees uplift their branches bare and
brown;
Winds are hushed, and skies are soft and grey, and grassy slopes
are sere,--
Calm and sweet and still, ah! sure is this the twilight of the year.
II.
There is this in these November days, the message that is sent--
Peace undying, rest, and sweet and measureless content;
Life's wild fever over, sleep's soft mood enchanting, such as fills
Golden dreams of gods immortal, sits enthroned upon these hills.
III.
Offered in day's golden chalice, sweet and dreamy peace is mine;
All's forgotten, lying here and watching tides of glorious light
divine
Slowly sweep along the hills, and vaguely thrilling to their sway--
All that love hath lost or wrong hath won, O calm and royal day!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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