The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Meantime, while the bag of woodcock mounts, or an old cock grouse is
neatly stopped in his rush through the thicket, the manifold beauties
which the autumnal season weaves will naturally arrest one's attention;
for he is callous indeed to all sense of beauty who even in the midst
of exciting sport can fail to note the harmonies of the October
countryside. To the true nature-lover, the shooting will be more of
an excuse than the principal reason for the excursion, of which the
surroundings and the joys of social companionship should constitute
the greater entertainment. And thus ere leaving the scene of the last
hour's sport, one involuntarily pauses at the skirts of the wood for a
final survey,--to mark the gorgeous ambers of the beech, the garnets of
the shad-blow and splendours of the dogwood and liquidambar; to view
the fires of the swamp-maple, the ochres of the sassafras and clarets
of the oak; while, fringing the edges of the thicket, the bronzed
fronds of the ostrich-fern and gilded pennants of the aspens flutter
their farewell to the passing year. On every side the insignia of
autumn blaze. Thorns hang heavy with their burden of ruddy fruit, the
black-alder berries gleam crimson in the swamp, hickory and elm shower
down their ore. And but for the patter of dropping nuts, the robin's
angelus, and the lisping of migrants pluming for their southward
flight, one might suppose the arrased woodland halls had never
hearkened to the hermit's song or echoed to the veery's strain. In
the air overhead the midges are holding their final dance; while from
the lengthening shadows and plaintive autumn breeze comes a whispered
admonition to seize the fleeting moment and make the most of the golden
hour.
Nevertheless, however alive to the enchantments of nature, the tonical
quality of the air will have asserted its sway, and the gunner's
appetite have mounted apace with the bag. So, in that contented frame
of mind and body which out-of-door exercise imparts, one arrives at
the scene of the luncheon, which has been happily chosen in a glade
through which the slanting sunbeam strays. And here the arrivals will
note with delight the presence not only of certain vitreous receptacles
with gilded capsules that are cooling in the stream, but also that of
St. Ange, who so distinguished himself on a previous occasion with his
wonderful salmis of quail. With the first glass of the foaming essence
of the Marne, which blends admirably with the lobster-cutlets and
tartare sauce, even the most enthusiastic of sportsmen will experience
no regret at the change from the covers of the upland to those of the
table. The more so as, passing to a vintage of the Haut-Médoc with
its accompaniment of eggs _farcis_, chicken-breasts with a chestnut
stuffing, lettuce sandwiches with _pâté de foie gras_, and the final
tartlets of puff-paste, the brightness of bright eyes increases, the
merry tale goes round, and St. Ange arises to this gastronomic homily:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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