The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
At a dinner where the renowned naturalist Buffon was present, a
truffled Périgueux turkey was brought in with great éclat. Inspired
by the penetrating aroma, an elderly lady who was among the guests
inquired of Buffon where the tuber grew. "At your feet, Madame," was
the ready reply. The lady not understanding, it was thus explained
to her: "_C'est aux pieds des charmes_" (at the feet of yoke-elm
trees). The compliment passed as a happy one. Towards the end of the
dinner some one asked the same question of Buffon, who, forgetful of
his elderly vis-à-vis, innocently replied, "They grow _aux pieds des
vieux charmes_" (old yoke-elm trees). The lady overheard him, and it
is unnecessary to state was no longer impressed with his genius as a
naturalist, or with the fact that a soup had been named in his honour
by the great Carême.
Though common to many countries, and comprising numerous species,
the truffle attains its greatest excellence in France, unless the
white truffle of Italy, which is considered equally good by many,
be excepted. Its chosen haunts are clayey soils mixed with sand and
limestone, moist, shaded, and temperate localities, southerly and
easterly expositions, protected slopes, and especially the umbrage of
oaks, as also of aspens, black poplars, nut-trees, yoke-elms, willows,
and white birches. Limestone or carbonate of lime is accounted as
necessary to its formation, while the presence of iron imparts to it
an added firmness and aroma. Despite persistent efforts, all attempts
to cultivate it have proved fruitless. It is only of recent years that
it has become known in part how it is propagated or how it grows.
Among trees, the oak is its most favoured companion, its artificial
production having been accomplished wholly through the cultivation of
oaks and certain other trees in soils and expositions corresponding to
its natural habitat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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