The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
This is the original and more familiar "A Recipe for Salad," as given
by the author's daughter, Lady Holland, in her "Memoir"--a recipe
that was subsequently placed by the gifted divine in somewhat altered
form, slightly abridged, and the quantity of the ingredients in one or
two instances slightly changed. In the variant it will be seen that
the portions of potato and anchovy were increased and the relative
quantities of oil and vinegar were amended.[58]
It is a question whether this celebrated recipe, so enthusiastically
expressed and so tempting to the uninitiated who would naturally be led
astray by the climax of the ode, has done more harm or more good in
the important interests of salad-making--whether the evil inculcated
in the prescription as a whole has not overbalanced the good results
of extolling the virtues of salad itself. The niceties of salad-making
are so subtle--so little may make or mar--it were unwise to prescribe
either eggs or potato to the inexperienced. The anchovy sauce must,
perforce, be banished as fatal; while mashed potatoes should always
be used with discretion. In corn-salad a little potato assuredly adds
to the unctuousness; and where lettuce is inclined to be tough or
stringy, it may be advantageously employed. It is likewise eminently
useful where the vinegar may have been dealt out too liberally. But
with tender, brittle, well-blanched cos or endive, who would think of
utilising either egg or potato! And how may mustard be appropriately
blended with chicory, water-cresses, or radishes, so rich themselves in
pungency? In the employment of condiments one should ever well consider
the special greenmeat to be treated, or what Montaigne has termed
"the differences of Sallets according to their seasons." Cayenne,
tabasco, and garlic are yet more dangerous in unpractised hands, and
may readily, like the brass of an orchestra run riot, drown with their
dissonance the _arpeggio_ passages and more dulcet notes of the other
instruments.
All things considered, the counsels to the little boys and girls in
the olden French reader, "Rôti-Cochon," such as "the ham of the pig,
well minced, is good to eat, but not without drinking," and "fresh
eggs and salt herrings are good for Lent and other days either fat or
meagre, according to one's appetite and the state of the market,"
are perchance safer gastronomic guides than the recipe of the worthy
English prebendary. For in any formula bearing upon the fashioning of
salads for the benefit of the many, it is better to hold strictly to
oil, vinegar, pepper, salt, and onion, and thus create no confusion in
the mind of the tyro, who should proceed by degrees until he becomes
proficient in the art,--
"And thus, complete in figure and in kind,
Obtains at length the salad he designed."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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