The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
A chapter might be devoted to this suave product of the dairy, but it
will be sufficient to present a form of serving it that will appeal to
many, inclusive of woman. Like the _fondue_, it is of Swiss origin.
In Switzerland, where cheese figures largely, there is known to the
initiated a sweet entremets termed "the hunter's sandwich," composed
of bread, fresh butter, cheese, and honey in combination, its only
drawback being the too cloying nature of the honey. In America this
objection may be happily avoided by employing the nectar of the
sugar-maple in its stead, and the dish prove all the better either for
the sportsman out of doors or served at the dinner with the dessert.
On fresh bread cut in thin slices for its base, you will place a
layer of the freshest of butter, then a layer of Brie or other fresh
cream-cheese, and, finally, a gilding of maple-syrup. For the dessert
it may be shaped in various ways, and made as dainty as feminine
fingers can devise. Its virtues need no panegyric,--it will succeed
the ices with as buoyant a grace as the daffodil follows the snowdrop
of spring. Captivated by its charms, the epicure will say, with the
van-courier of Bishop Fuger in his chase for the ideal wine, "Est, est,
est"; while madame and mademoiselle will attach a new significance to
the poet's mellifluous lines,--
"As the last taste of sweets is sweetest last,
Writ in remembrance more than things long past."
With the dessert the dinner ends; and with it, also, properly
terminates a review of gastronomy. It may be asked, however, after the
somewhat extended reference to cooks and cookery and the literature
and ethics of the art, which of the numerous manuals referred to, or
of the countless existing works that have not been enumerated, is
the best and most serviceable for those who would perfect themselves
in the subtleties of the range. The question is easier asked than
answered. To specify any one authority, so far as any one writer on
cookery may be considered authoritative, were scarcely satisfactory--a
comprehensive answer being dependent to no inconsiderable extent upon
the tastes, adaptabilities, and qualifications of the person concerned.
As there is no one poet, moreover, who may satisfy all or even a single
individual, so there is no one author-cook or compiler who has yet
compassed the subject. "The cuisine," says Beauvilliers, "simple in its
origin, refined from century to century, has become a difficult art, a
complicated science on which many authors have written, without having
been able to embrace it in its entirety."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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