Murger (Henri), referred to, 341 Mushrooms, 362; species, qualities, history, haunts, literature, and cookery of, 397-408 Musset (Alfred de), quoted, 219 Mutton, Pré-Salé and Southdown, 359, 380 Napoleon I, as a gastronomer, 61 Nasidienus, the feast of, 39, 40 Nero, his _Domus aurea_, 43 Ninon de l'Enclos, referred to, 175, 178, 200 North, (Christopher), 309, 316 "Nouvel Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 220 Nudels, 167 Oaks, list of truffle-producing, 391 Oil and vinegar, 415-416 "Old Cookery Books," quoted, 275 Olive-oil, remote use of, 8 Olla podrida, 50; en grande, 50 Omelette (the curé's), anecdote of, 299-302 Onderdonk (Bishop), anecdote of, 295 Onion, an ancient vegetable, 9; tribe, virtues of the, 100, 107, 231, 387 "Original (The)," 319 _et seq._ Orsay (Comte d'), on French cookery, 258 Ortolans, 76, 361 Ostade, referred to, 74, 445 Oudry, referred to, 234 Ovens, Carême's remarks on, 202 Oyster-beds, first artificial, 27 Oysters, ancient modes of cooking, 89; superiority of American, 252 Pain perdu, 89 Painting, Italian school of, 6, 48, 245; Dutch and Flemish schools of, 6, 246, 445; French school of, 246 "Panthropeon, or History of Food (The)," 17, 209 Papabotte (the), 362-363 Parkinson (John), 81, 411 Parsley, virtues of, 106, 231 Pastry, La Reynière's definitions of, 138; Carême's definition of, 202 Pâte de foie gras, 7, 130, 156, 158, 161, 162, 189, 235, 236, 397; La Reynière's account of a, 123; its history, 159; d'écrevisses, 203; de Chartres, 434 "Pâtissier français (Le)," 59 Pennell (Elizabeth Robins), quoted, 107, 342 Pensey (Henrion de), his famous gastronomic axiom, 252 Pepper, superiority of adulterated, 417 Pepys (Diary of), quoted, 99-101 Perdrix à l'espagnol, 50 Perfumes, use of, at feasts, 13, 28 Petit-Radel (M.), anecdote of, 77 "Petite Cuisine (La)," 227 Petrarch, on wine, 293 Petronius Arbiter, referred to, 35, 37 Pheasant (the), 289, 359 Philippe d'Orléans, as a gastronomer, 61 "Philosopher's Banquet (The)," quoted, 106 Physicians, as gastronomers, 78, 267 "Physiologie du Goût (La)." referred to and quoted, 175 _et seq._, 206, 351, 395. _Vide_ also "Savarin" Pie (pumpkin), its origin, 273; a game, 372 Pies, 249, 430 _et seq._; wild boar, 89; strange early English, 95