The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Earliest of the English works on cookery is Alexander Neckam's "De
Utensilibus, or Treatise on Utensils," written at the close of the
twelfth century, two hundred years anterior to the introduction of
parsley in flavouring. In this treatise, which purports to instruct
young housekeepers in maintaining a well-ordered establishment, Latin
and Norman French are the languages almost exclusively employed. Of
other very old works may be enumerated "The Forme of Cury," with its
one hundred and ninety-six recipes, compiled by the chief cooks of
Richard II; the "Liber Cure Cocorum"; the "Kalendare de Potages dyuers
and Leche Metys," dating about 1430; John Russell's "Boke of Nurture,"
composed about 1450; "The Noble Boke of Cookry," first printed in 1500;
"The Boke of Keruynge," or Book of Carving, a small manual printed by
Wynkyn de Worde in 1508; and the "Via Recta ad Vitam Longam," or The
Right Way to Long Life, of Tobias Venner, a physician of Shakespeare's
time. Over any and all of these, some of which exist only in
manuscript, the student may burn the midnight oil; black-letter Chaucer
being easy sailing compared with the breakers of old cookery books.
Much of the so-called scientific cookery of early England was French,
though many of the French titles become strangely perverted and are
frequently difficult to recognise; as, for instance, "let" for _lait_,
"vyaunt" for _viande_, "fryit," for _froide_, "sauke" for _sauce_, etc.
The first works that may be termed English date only from the latter
half of the seventeenth century.
The English, four and five hundred years ago, had four meals
daily,--breakfast at seven, dinner at ten, supper at four, and livery
at eight. Since then, from an early hour in the morning the principal
daily meal has advanced equally in France and England through every
hour from ten in the forenoon until ten at night. In France in the
thirteenth century nine in the morning was the dinner-hour. Henry VII
dined at eleven. In Cromwell's time, one o'clock had come to be the
fashionable hour, and in Addison's day two o'clock, which gradually
became adjourned until four. Pope found fault with Lady Suffolk for
dining so late as four, saying young people might become inured to
such things, but as for himself, if she would adopt such unreasonable
practices he must absent himself from Marble Hill. Four and five
continued to be the popular dining-hour among the better classes until
the second decade of the century, when dinner was further postponed,
from which period it has steadily continued to encroach upon the
evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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