The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The strong stomach of the early Briton, fortified by abundant
out-of-door exercise, was proof against dyspepsia, and was enabled to
digest the coarsest and most strongly seasoned foods. Whale, porpoise,
seal, and grampus were common dishes. Besides such seasonings as
ginger, cinnamon, galingale, cloves, garlic, and vinegar, copiously
used in preparations where they would seem most incongruous, ale was
generously employed. Almond-milk was also a common ingredient, while
marrow was in great favour. Of breadstuffs the fifteenth century had an
abundant variety,--pain-main, or bread of very fine flour, wheat-bread,
barley-meal bread, bran-bread, pease-bread, oat-bread or oat-cakes,
hard-bread, and unleavened bread. The poor often used a mixture of rye,
lentils, and oatmeal, varied according to the season and district.
The author of the "Book of Nurture" describes himself as usher and
marshal to Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, delighting in his work and
desirous of training worthy successors in the mysteries of managing a
well-appointed household:
"An vsshere y Am | ye may beholde | to a prynce of highe degre,
that enioyethe to informe & teche | alle tho that will thrive &
thee."
This exordium is followed by minute directions for carving meats, fish,
and fowls; rules for general behaviour; a disquisition on wines, meats,
soups, and sauces; a recipe for hippocras; hints to the chamberlain,
butler, taster, dinner arranger, etc. The work is both ambitious and
elaborate, thoroughly covering the subject as it was comprehended by
the writer's predecessors and his own inventive genius. A passage or
two from the chapters headed "Diuerce Sawces" and "Sawce for Fische"
will give one an idea of the style of his treatise:
"Also to know youre sawces for flesche conveniently,
hit provokithe a fyne apetide if sawce youre meat be bie;
to the lust of youre lord look that ye haue ther redy
suche sawce as hym likethe | to make him glad & mery.
"Mustard is meete for brawne | beef or powdred motoun;
verdius to boyled capoun | veel | chiken | or bakon;
And to signet | & swan, convenyant is the chawdon,
Roost beeff | & goos | with garlek, vinegre, or pepur, in
conclusioun.
"Gynger sawce to lambe, to kyd | pigge, or fawn | in fere;
to feysand, partriche, or cony | mustard with the sugure;
Sawce gamelyn to heyron-sewe | egret | crane | & plovere;
also | brewe | Curlew | sugre & salt | with watere of the
ryvere...."
It will be seen from this brief extract that Russell's larder was in
no wise wanting for the gustatory entertainment of his lordship, his
resources being yet more apparent in the chapter relative to the proper
sauces for fish:
"Yowre sawces to make y shalle geue yow lerynge:
Mustard | is metest with alle maner salt herynge,
Salt fysche, salt Congur, samoun, with sparlynge,
Salt ele, salt makerelle, & also withe merlynge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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