The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The wines and beverages of old corresponded to many of the dishes
themselves; which of these was most productive of indigestion it were
difficult to state. Hippocras, so generously indulged in, not to
mention posset, mead, metheglin, and perry, must have been a potent
factor in fomenting the uric-acid diathesis. When to these common
beverages are added the fiery, heavy, sweet, and mixed wines that were
in general use, it is scarcely surprising that the seeds of gout were
sown broadcast, and that the indiscretions of the fathers were visited
upon the children unto the existing generation. Even Milton did not
escape, while Spenser, Sir William Temple, and a host of worthies who
were supposed to be abstemious in their diet were victims to arthritic
complaints. How Shakespeare eluded the malady seems a miracle, in
view of the existing viands and beverages and the necessary lack of
exercise attendant on his literary pursuits. Alexander Neckham, in his
twelfth-century treatise, mentions claré and nectar as proper to be
found in the cellar or in the storehouse. Claré was a mixture of clear
red wine, the best of which came from Guyenne, with honey, sugar, and
spices, as distinguished from piment or nectar, a similar compound,
but with more substance, founded on the red wine of Burgundy, Dauphiné,
etc.
In ancient days the taste was for "strong, sharp, and full-flavoured"
wines. Bordeaux, or "claret," as it is now made was unknown.
Vitification and vinification were then undeveloped compared with the
present time. In place of the existing delicate growths of the Médoc
were the fiery wines of Guyenne and Gascony and the heavy products
of Provence and Languedoc. It is to be supposed, likewise, that the
Rhenish wines at that time were totally different from those of the
Rheingau and the Bavarian Palatinate now. But the kinds mostly in vogue
were sack and malmsey, muscadel and canary, and "bastard" or malaga,
port as yet not having been introduced into England.
The punch-bowl or wassail-bowl, the goddard, caudle-cup and posset-pot,
were all in use in England in olden days--punch, or "pauch," however,
being a drink of Indian origin, the word meaning five, and so named
from its five ingredients: arrack, tea, sugar, lemon-juice, and water.
Grog is an English beverage of later introduction. Admiral Vernon,
in 1745, having put an end to the use by the English navy of ale,
substituted for it rum diluted with water. The admiral was dubbed by
the sailors "Old Grog," because of an old cloak of grogram which he
always wore in foul weather, and hence it came naturally about that the
new potation of the high seas acquired its present name.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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