The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Mead, the favourite tipple of Queen Bess, was made by boiling honey
and water together, with quantities of spices, herbs, and lemons;
when it had stood for three months, the liquor was bottled and
was ready to drink six weeks afterwards. Butler, in "The Feminine
Monarchy, or History of Bees," draws a distinction between mead and
metheglin, making hydromel the generic term. In the old cookery books
and "Housewives" we find directions how to make strong Mead and small
White Mead. Artificial Frontignac wine was made by boiling water,
sugar, and raisins together, adding elder-flowers, syrup of lemons,
and ale yeast. "English Champagne" was composed of water, sugar, and
currants boiled, with the addition of balm; and, when bottled, a small
lump of double-refined sugar was used to impart effervescence. In a
somewhat similar manner numerous other forms of wine were compounded,
as Saragossa or English Sack, Quince, Mountain, Plum, Birch, and Sage.
Perhaps the most bizarre of all ancient concoctions is one termed
"Cock Ale," for which this recipe is presented in E. Smith's "Compleat
Housewife" (1736):
"_To make Cock Ale_:--Take ten gallons of ale, and a large
cock, the older the better, parboil the cock, flea him, and
stamp him in a stone mortar till his bones are broken, (you
must craw and gut him when you flea him), put the cock into
two quarts of sack, and put to it three pounds of raisins of
the sun stoned, some blades of mace, and a few cloves; put all
these into a canvas bag, and a little before you find the ale
has done working, put the ale and bag together into a vessel;
in a week or nine days' time bottle it up, fill the bottles
but just above the necks, and leave the same time to ripen as
other ale."
A notable advance in the art was accomplished during the latter part
of the reign of Charles II, who was somewhat of a cook as well as an
epicure. The sirloin of beef is said to owe its name to this monarch,
who, dining upon a loin of beef with which he was particularly pleased,
inquired the name of the joint, saying its merit was so great that
it deserved to be knighted, and that thenceforth it should be called
_Sir-Loin_. The Parisian school soon became fashionable, and numerous
works on cookery made their appearance. But, like the fifteenth Louis
when intent upon his pleasures at the Parc aux Cerfs, the second
Charles, amid his dissolute court and its frail beauties whom Sir
Peter Lely has drawn for us, had other matters to engage his serious
attention than presiding at the range or posing as a patron of culinary
authors. Pies, tarts, and pasties now met with increased favour, and
"The Accomplisht Cook, or The Art and Mystery of Cookery" of Robert
May, the first edition of which appeared in 1665, became the oracle of
feasting and dining. "God and his own conscience," the author states,
would not permit him "to bury his experiences with his silver hairs in
the grave."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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