The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"The Gourmand is not only the being whom nature has endowed
with an excellent stomach and a vast appetite--all robust
and well-constituted men are in this category--but also he
who adds to these advantages an enlightened taste, whose
first characteristic resides in a singularly delicate palate
cultivated by long experience. With him all the senses should
be in constant accord with that of the taste, inasmuch as
he should criticise his dishes even before they approach
his lips. It is sufficient to say that his vision should be
penetrating, his ear alert, his touch fine, and his tongue
capable. Thus the gourmand whom the Academy paints for us
as a gross being is, on the contrary, by profession a person
gifted with extreme delicacy; with him health alone should be
vigorous."
Again, he says:
"It only requires a voracious appetite to be a glutton. It
demands an exquisite judgment, a profound knowledge of every
branch of the culinary art, a sensual and delicate palate, and
a thousand other qualities very difficult to combine, in order
to merit the title of Gourmand."
In still another reference to the epicure he would have him possess,
in addition, that jovial humour without which the best of repasts is
but a sad and solemn function--a person well equipped with anecdotes
and amusing stories with which he may fill up the spaces between the
services, so that the sober guests may forgive him his appetite.
Some may deem his definition includes more than the qualities usually
assigned to an amateur of dining, and that it touches too closely on
the realm of Gargantua. But it must not be lost sight of that his
cardinal mission was that of improving all manner of food preparations
and bringing the table to its acme of perfection. Without such
appreciative votaries, cookery must necessarily languish, and dining
prove merely an obligatory routine; it is to such as he that the art
owes its present superiority, and to whom mankind should be duly
thankful. As he has defined it, "gastronomy is an immense book ever
open to him who may read it aright, whose pages present a series of
mobile pictures, and whose horizon extends beyond one's view."
All the products of the animal and vegetable world were pronounced
upon by this supreme judge of succulencies, whose palate and appetite
never failed, and whose pen responded to the most delicate and fugitive
sensations of taste. The "Almanach" numbers eight small volumes, each
containing a characteristic dedication. Each volume also includes a
quaint and carefully engraved frontispiece executed under the direction
of the author, the subjects representing "The Library of a Gourmand of
the Nineteenth Century," "The Audiences of a Gourmand," "A Séance of
the Testing Jury," "The Meditations of a Gourmand," "The First Duty of
a Host," "The Dreams of a Gourmand," "The Levee of a Gourmand," and
"The Most Mortal Enemy of the Dinner."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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