The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"Without sauces a dinner were as bare as a house that has been
levied on by the officers of the sheriff.
"The etymology of the word _faisander_ sufficiently proclaims
that the pheasant should be waited for as long as a pension
from the government by a man of letters who has never known
how to flatter any one.
"It is notorious that a dinner, however generous, has never
disturbed a person who has preceded or followed it by a walk
of five or six leagues; and that indigestions are virtually
unknown to great pedestrians.
"With many people a stomach that is proof against everything
is the principle of happiness, and with everybody this organ
exercises a greater influence than one imagines on the acts of
life.
"Life is so brief that we should not glance either too far
backwards or forwards in order to be happy. Let us therefore
study how to fix our happiness in our glass and on our plate.
"Un Amphitryon délicat no doit pas souffrir que la galanterie
dégénère chez lui en scandale; et s'il invite de jeunes et
jolies femmes ce doit toujours être avec leurs maris, et
jamais avec leurs amants."
Unfortunately, no menus of the _Jury dégustateur_ have been preserved,
though one is presented of the celebrated restaurant, the Rocher de
Cancale--a dinner of twenty-four covers, served November 28, 1809, at
a cost of one thousand francs. Considering the elaborateness of the
bill of fare, the price was assuredly extremely moderate, including, as
it did, four soups, four relevés, twelve entrées, four large pieces,
four roasts, and eight entremets, all served in the highest style of
the art.
In many of the best Parisian restaurants to-day no figures are
attached to the _carte_, so that one may dine without disturbing his
digestion by thinking of the expense. The awakening comes later, with
the _addition_, when, if one be an epicure with a partiality for rare
vintages, he will be apt to recall Béranger's "Voyage au Pays de
Cocagne" and its dénouement:
". . . . . .
Mais qui vient détruire (But who would dispel
Ce rêve enchanteur? This dream all-divine?
Amis, j'en ai honte, Friends, to my shame,
C'est quelqu'un qui monte 'Tis the restaurant's claim--
Apporter le compte The bill of the entrées
Du restaurateur." And score of the wine.)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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