The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Since the latter half of the sixteenth century Germany has contributed
her full share of manuals on cookery as compared with most countries.
Already, about 1500, there appeared a work entitled "Ein nützlichs
Buchlin von der Speis des Menschen." Among the more important treatises
of the same century were "Ein neu Kochbuch" (1587), by Marx Rumpolt,
cook to the Elector of Mainz and to the Queen of Denmark, and Frau
Anna Wecker's "Neu Köstlich und nützliches Koch-Buch" (1597). It was
about this period that Montaigne, after his travels through Italy
and Germany, declared that even in the inns the Germans paid far
better attention to the furbishing of their plates and dishes than
was the case with the hostelries of France. Treatises relating to
"wohl-schmeckenden Speisen" and "vornehme Tafeln" have since continued
to multiply in the Fatherland, until Germany has become fully satisfied
with her own mode of cookery and such modifications of certain French
and Italian dishes as accord with her chosen ideas of nutrition.
Yet the German cook-book presents serious drawbacks. For, apart from
the inevitable tendency of the _Zeitwort_ to twine itself around
the end of well-nigh interminable sentences, the characters of the
language itself are so trying that a scientific treatise may be perused
only at the risk of being compelled to resort to spectacles forever
afterwards. The melodious measures of Goethe and Schiller, the cadences
of Heine and Lenau, will be found less formidable, the rhythm and
flow carrying the eye over the typographical boulders with greater
ease. A German cook-book, however, may well deter the most insatiable
student from proceeding farther than the initial chapter. Think, for
example, what the difficulties would be of absorbing a volume which
presents such a title as this: "Die Feinere Kochkunst dargestellt nach
den Erfordernissen unserer Zeit, mit Berücksichtigung der damit in
Verbindung stehenden sonstigen Zweigen der Gastronomie."
Fancy endeavouring to solve the true inwardness of an ancient Nürnberg
treatise which bears this explanation of its contents: "Vollständig
vermehrtes Trincier-Buch, von Tafeldecken Trinciren, zeitigung der
Mundkoste, Schauessen und Schaugerichten, benebens xxiv Gast oder
Tischfragen."
And when we reflect that the German author who undertakes to
elucidate a given theme probes it to the very bottom as far as human
understanding and science can fathom it, we may readily conclude that
to master the literature of German gastronomy would call for stupendous
patience on the part of an alien.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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