The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
All through Alsace, wherever ponds or streams exist, may be seen
daily vast flocks of geese during the summer and autumn, screaming,
splashing, and diving in the water. The landscape is white with them,
and the plain resounds with their clamour. Each flock, which often
numbers a thousand, has its goose-herd and goose-dog. At dawn the
herder sounds his reveille, beginning to assemble his charges from
the most remote part of the village or hamlet. These take their place
in the procession of their own accord, until the ranks are complete,
and they eagerly wend their way to the coveted goal. Here they remain
until evening, when, at a summons from the herder, the return journey
is accomplished, each individual flock leaving the phalanx on arriving
near its home. Less idyllic is the life of the town goose, when large
ponds and succulent herbage are not readily accessible, the birds
being confined in yards where, in place of a daily round of bathing
and gossiping, they are compelled to watch the flight of the storks
overhead and mark the monotonous passing of the hours as they are
tolled from the Rathhaus tower. Nearly every other house or yard of the
poorer classes has its geese, the young fowls alone being utilised for
their livers. In late October or early November the fattening begins, a
process lasting usually from two to three weeks, the prized livers--the
true "golden egg" of the bird of St. Michael--then weighing from two to
three pounds.
[Illustration: THE BIRD OF ST. MICHAEL
From the etching by Birket-Foster, R.A.]
The humanitarian will protest against the cruelty of gorging the fowl
to repletion, depriving it of drink, and imprisoning it in close
cages to gratify the voracity of man. Yet it must be admitted that
hitherto everything possible to the maintenance of the health and
pleasure of the subject has been lavishly supplied, and that a brief
span at most would elapse ere time must claim its victim. The fox and
the goose have always been closely associated, and what applies to
one may well apply to the other. "Certainly," reasons Bulwer, "in the
chase itself all my sympathies are on the side of the fox. But if all
individuals are to give way to the happiness of the greatest number,
we must set off against the painful fate of the fox the pleasurable
sensation in the breasts of numbers which his fate has the honourable
privilege to excite." Without the inconveniences that the Strassburg
goose is compelled to undergo in behalf of the metamorphosis of its
liver, the list of _plats de prédilection_ were shorn of one of its
greatest attractions, and a city now of world-wide fame must soon drag
out a monotonous existence and be forgotten unless by the student of
architecture--a fact duly set forth in the following stanza:
"Strasbourg tire vanité
De ses pâtés de foie;
Cette superbe cité
Ne doit sa prospérité
Qu'aux oies!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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