The Poetical Works of William Wordsworth — Volume 6 (of 8)Wordsworth, William
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The Poetical Works of William Wordsworth — Volume 6 (of 8)
Wordsworth, William
English poetry -- 18th century; English poetry -- 19th century
"Monday, 20th August. Altorf.--We found our own comfortable Inn, THE OX,
near the fountain of William Tell. The buildings here are fortunately
disposed with a pleasing irregularity. Opposite to our Inn stands the
Tower of the Arsenal, built upon the spot where grew the Linden-tree to
which Tell's son is reported to have been bound when the arrow was shot.
This Tower was spared by the fire which consumed an adjoining building,
_happily_ spared, if only for the sake of the rude paintings on its
walls. I studied them with infinite satisfaction, especially the face of
the innocent little Boy with the apple on his head. After dinner we
walked up the valley to the reputed birthplace of Tell: it is a small
village at the foot of a glen, rich, yet very wild. A rude unroofed
modern bridge crosses the boisterous river, and, beside the bridge is a
fantastic mill-race, constructed in the same rustic style--uncramped by
apprehensions of committing waste upon the woods. At the top of a steep
rising directly from the river, stands a square tower of grey stone,
partly covered with ivy, in itself rather a striking object from the
bridge, even if not pointed out for notice as being built on the site of
the dwelling where William Tell was born. Near it, upon the same
eminence, stands the white church, and a small chapel called by Tell's
name, where we again found rough paintings of his exploits, mixed with
symbols of the Roman Catholic faith. Our walk from Altorf to this
romantic spot had been stifling; along a narrow road between old stone
walls--nothing to be seen above them but the tops of fruit trees, and
the imprisoning hills. No doubt when those walls were built, the lands
belonged to the churches and monasteries. Happy were we when we came to
the glen and rushing river, and still happier when, having clomb the
eminence, we sate beside the churchyard, where kindly breezes visited
us--the warm breezes of Italy! We had here a Volunteer guide, a ragged
child, voluble with his story, trimmed up for the stranger. He could
tell the history of the Hero of Uri, and declare the import of each
memorial;--while (not neglecting the saints) he proudly pointed out to
our notice (what indeed could not have escaped it) a gigantic daubing of
the figure of St. Christopher on the wall of the church steeple. But our
smart young maiden was to introduce us to the interior of the ivied
Tower, so romantic in its situation above the roaring stream, at the
mouth of the glen, which, behind, is buried beneath overhanging woods.
We ascended to the upper rooms by a blind staircase, that might have
belonged to a turret of one of our ancient castles, which conducted us
into a gothic room, where we found neither the ghost nor the armour of
William Tell; but an artist at work with the pencil; with two or three
young men, his pupils, from Altorf--no better introduction to the favour
of one of those young men was required than that of our sprightly female
attendant.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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