The Polar World: A popular description of man and nature in the Arctic and Antarctic regions of the globeHartwig, G. (Georg)
History
The Polar World: A popular description of man and nature in the Arctic and Antarctic regions of the globe
Hartwig, G. (Georg)
Antarctica; Arctic peoples; Arctic regions; Natural history
The next morning, as the weather seemed to improve, and the road (along
the Indiga River) to the next Russian settlement was easy to find,
Castrén resolved to pursue his journey. “But the storm once more arose,
and became so dreadfully violent that I could neither breathe nor
keep my eyes open against the wind. The roaring of the gale stupefied
my senses. The moist snow wetted me during the day, and the night
converted it into ice. Half frozen, I arrived after midnight at the
settlement. The fatigues of the journey had been such that I could
scarcely stand; I had almost lost my consciousness, and my sight had
suffered so much from the wind that I repeatedly ran with my forehead
against the wall. The roaring of the storm continually resounded in my
ears for many hours after.”
A few days later Castrén arrived at Pustosersk, undoubtedly one of
the dreariest places in the world. With scarcely a trace of arboreal
vegetation, the eye, during the greater part of the year, rests on an
interminable waste of snow, where the cold winds are almost perpetually
raging. The storms are so violent as not seldom to carry away the roofs
of the huts, and to prevent the wretched inhabitants from fetching
water and fuel. In this Northern Eden our indefatigable ethnologist
tarried several months, as it afforded him an excellent opportunity
for continuing his studies of the language, manners, and religion of
the Samoïedes, who come to the fair of Pustosersk during the winter,
to barter their reindeer skins for flour and other commodities, and at
the same time to indulge in their favorite beverage--brandy. At length
the Samoïedes retired, the busy season of the place was evidently at an
end, and Castrén, having no further inducement to remain at Pustosersk,
left it for the village of Ustsylmsk, situated 150 versts higher up the
Petschora, where he hoped still to find some straggling Samoïedes. The
road to Ustsylmsk leads through so desolate a region, that, according
to the priests of the neighborhood, it can not have been originally
created by God with the rest of the world, but must have been formed
after the Deluge. Near Ustsylmsk (65° 30´ N. lat.) the country
improves, as most of the northern trees grow about the place; but,
unfortunately, a similar praise can not be awarded to its inhabitants,
whom Castrén found to be the most brutal and obstinate Raskolniks (or
sectarians) he had ever seen. Without in the least caring for the Ten
Commandments, and indulging in every vice, these absurd fanatics
fancied themselves better than the rest of mankind, because they made
the sign of the cross with the thumb and the two last fingers, and
stood for hours together before an image in stupid contemplation. Our
homeless traveller soon became the object of their persecutions; they
called him “wizard,” “a poisoner of rivers and wells,” and insulted
him during his walks. At length they even attempted to take his life,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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