The Portsmouth Road and Its Tributaries: To-Day and in Days of OldHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Portsmouth Road and Its Tributaries: To-Day and in Days of Old
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; England -- Social life and customs; Portsmouth Road (England)
The other inns where the jaded traveller of fifty years ago was certain of
being well and adequately received, were the "Dolphin," the "White Hart,"
and the "Red Lion," all of them flourishing still. Of these the "Dolphin"
is the largest, standing at the corner of Dragon Street, where the
high-road passes by. The courtyards and coach-houses of the "Dolphin" are
a sight to see and to wonder at. You gaze at them, and presently the old
times seem to come crowding back. The eight-and-twenty coaches (more or
less, as you choose your period) that fared either way upon the Portsmouth
Road seem more real to you who look upon these capacious stables; and the
passengers, the coachmen and guards, the ostlers, and the horsey
hangers-on of such places come upon the imagination with a great deal more
of reality than is gained from the reading of books, howsoever eloquent.
Cobbett on one of his rides stayed at Petersfield, and put up at this old
house. "We got," says he, "good stabling at the 'Dolphin' for our horses.
The waiters and people at inns _look so hard at us_ to see us so liberal
as to horse-feed, fire, candle, beds, and room, while we are so very very
sparing in the article of drink! They seem to pity our taste!"
The memory of old times dies hard, and they still tell you here of the
wonderful goat that was used to take his pleasure in following the
up-coaches from here to Godalming, returning day by day to sleep in the
straw of the "Dolphin" stables. For years this singular animal escorted
the coaches, until one day, after running some distance with the mail, he
turned round three times, trotted off home, and during the rest of his
life eschewed the delights of the road altogether. That was in 1825, and
the tale has lost nothing in the telling these seventy years.
For the rest, the "Dolphin" is a singularly dull and unromantic-looking
house, painted a leaden hue. Within, it is all long dark corridors and
unexpected corners. Commercials frequent it; although inquiries have not
yet discovered what commercial gentlemen sell at Petersfield. Sportsmen
come here too, and tourists of the pedestrian variety. In the old days,
of the period between the coaching era and the present time, the "Dolphin"
was very much neglected; the flooring precipitous and mostly worn out, so
that the unsophisticated guest who jumped incautiously from his bed in the
morning would, very likely, thrust his foot through some unexpected hole,
to the imminent danger of the ceiling of the room beneath; or else would
find himself rushing, with the steep gradient of the floor, into obscure
corners of his apartment. The mirrors, also, in those days, left much to
be desired of the guest who shaved himself, for they were either cracked
or wavy, or both; and the traveller who, greatly daring, reaped a stubbly
chin with trouble and cold water before one of those uncertain
looking-glasses, in which his features flickered dizzily, required both
stout nerves and a steady hand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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