For instance. The most common and almost universal dish throughout France, is a large piece of plainly-boiled fresh beef, from which the soup—or “_potage_,” as it is there called—has been partly made, and which is separately served up as “_bouilli_,” accompanied by strong gravy and minced vegetables, or stewed cabbage. Now this, as constantly dressed in the French mode, is ever delicate both in fibre and flavour; while, in the English manner of boiling it, it is almost always hard and insipid. The reason of which, as explained by that celebrated cook, Carême, who superintended the kitchen of His Majesty George IV., is this:—“The meat, instead of being put down to boil, as in the English method, is in France put in the pot with the usual quantity of cold water, and placed at the corner of the fire-place, where, slowly becoming hot, the heat gradually swells the muscular fibres of the beef, dissolving the gelatinous substances therein contained, and disengaging that portion which chemists term ‘osmazome,’ and which imparts savour to the flesh—thus both rendering the meat tender and palatable, and the broth relishing and nutritive; whilst, on the contrary, if the pot be inconsiderately put upon too quick a fire, the boiling is precipitated, the fibre coagulates and hardens, the osmazome is hindered from disengaging itself, and thus nothing is obtained but a piece of tough meat, and a broth without taste or succulence.” Meat loses, by cooking, from one-fifth to one-third of its whole weight. More is lost by roasting than by boiling meat. In calculating for a family, one pound per day for each individual is a general allowance for dinner. Meat that is not to be cut till cold must be well done, particularly in summer. The use of skewers in joints should be avoided as much as possible, as they let out the gravy; twine will answer better. In every branch of cookery much must be left to the discretion of the cook and knowledge of the family’s taste; particularly in force-meats and seasonings. SUET.—When sirloins of beef, or loins of veal or mutton, are brought in, part of the suet may be cut off for puddings, or to clarify. Chopped fine and mixed with flour, if tied down in a jar, it will keep ten days or a fortnight. If there be more suet than will be used while fresh, throw it into pickle, made in the proportion of one quarter pound of salt to a quart of cold water, and it will be as good afterwards for any use, when soaked a little. To remove the taint of meat, wash it several times in cold water; then put it into plenty of cold water, into which throw several pieces of red-hot charcoal. If you fear meat will not keep till the time it is wanted, par-roast or par-boil it, that is, partly cook it; it will then keep two days longer, when it may be dressed as usual, but in rather less time.