In stirring the fire, be careful to remove the dripping-pan, else dust and ashes may fall in. On no account let the fire get dull and low, as a strong heat is requisite to brown the meat. A thin joint requires a brisk fire; a large joint, a strong, sound, and even fire. When steam rises from the meat, it is done. Large joints should be put at a moderate distance from the fire, and gradually brought nearer; else the meat will be over-done half-way through the joint, and be nearly raw at the bone. Such meat as is not very fat should have paper placed over it, to prevent it from being scorched. Do not sprinkle the meat with salt when first put down, as the salt draws out the gravy. Old meats require more cooking than young. The longer the meat has been killed, the less time it requires to roast it. Very fat meat requires more time than usual. The general rule is to allow fifteen minutes to a pound for roasting with a good fire, and ten or twenty minutes over, as the family like it well done or not. Baste the meat first with fresh dripping, and then with its own fat or dripping: and within the last hour of roasting, take off the paper, and sprinkle the meat with salt and flour, to brown and froth it; but some cooks dredge the meat with flour earlier, so that it may imbibe the gravy, a practice which should be specially avoided. The spit should be wiped dry immediately after it is drawn from the meat, and washed and scoured every time it is used. Perfection in roasting is very difficult, and no certain rules can be given for it, as success depends on many circumstances which are continually changing: the age and size (especially the thickness) of the pieces, the quality of the coals, the weather, the currents of air in the kitchen, the more or less attention of the cook, and the time of serving, are all to be considered. Hence, epicures say of a well-roasted joint, “It is done to a turn.” Roast meats should be sent to table the moment they are ready, if they are to be eaten in perfection. BROILING.—Broiling requires a brisk and clear fire, proportioned to the article to be broiled; for example, mutton chops require a clear rather than a brisk fire, else the fat will be wasted before the lean is warmed through; but for a beef-steak, the fire can neither be too brisk nor clear, if the gridiron be placed at the proper distance. Fish requires a steady fire; as also does under-done meat. Much, however, depends on the substance of the article to be broiled; if it be thick, it must be placed at a greater distance, at first, to warm it through; if thin, the fire must be brisk, else the meat will not be of a good colour. The gridiron should be wiped clean after it has been used, so that the bars may be kept bright on top; they should be allowed to get hot before the article is laid on them, but not too hot, else they will burn the meat or fish; the latter, especially. To prevent this, the bars should be rubbed with fat.