On the following morning the passengers of the _Clytie_ woke to find
themselves steaming into the port of Tangiers. They scrambled through
their toilets and hurried on deck, in raptures over the view of the old
Moorish town against a background of green trees, and the blue waters of
the bay in front. As some cargo was to be shipped, there would be time
to go on shore, and a party was made up under the escort of Captain
Porter and of the Greek agent who had arrived on board with the pilot.
Donkeys were hired for the ladies, and a cavalcade set forth to view the
Kasbah, or native market, and some beautiful gardens outside the city
walls. It was strange to the girls to be in Morocco, with black faces
all round them, and to catch glimpses through open doorways of Moorish
courtyards, of marble fountains, or of little Arab children chanting the
Koran. They were glad indeed of a masculine escort, for their
donkey-boys looked such a wild crew that would have been frightened to
be left alone with them, and the eastern aspect and general dirt of the
place, though picturesque, made them thankful when they were safely back
again on board ship.
To their intense interest, part of the cargo consisted of Mohammedan
pilgrims for Mecca. The rank and file of these encamped on the lower
deck, where they sat, ate, slept, and cooked their food over charcoal
braziers, filling up their time by reciting the Koran in a monotonous
chant. A wealthy merchant from Morocco was also traveling to Alexandria
with his wife and family, and had engaged all the second-class quarters
of the _Clytie_ for his exclusive occupation. His lady was brought on
board closely veiled, and made no further appearance, but Dulcie and
Carmel, standing one day on the upper deck, could see down to the
second-class deck, and noticed three small children run out to play. The
boys were each clothed in a white garment with a gaily colored striped
sash, but the beautiful little girl wore a dress of palest blue velvet,
exquisitely embroidered with roses. Carmel, who adored children, could
not resist the temptation to call to them and throw them each an orange,
whereupon some warning voice summoned them inside the cabin, and after
that, though the boys occasionally played on the deck, the girl was
never again allowed to expose her face to the gaze of strangers.
Another brief halt was made at Algiers, a less barbaric place than
Tangiers, and quite up to date and modern in its handsome French
quarter, though picturesque in the Arab part of the city. It was
possible to get carriages here, instead of donkeys, and the passengers
went on shore for a delightful drive to the Caliph Mustapha palace,
through woods of eucalyptus, and pine, and palm, and gardens of
flowering shrubs. They would have been glad to stay longer in such a
beautiful spot, but the _Clytie_ was getting up steam, and unless they
wished to be left behind they must go on board again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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