The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
The following slight sketch of the manufacture of calf-kid will serve to
illustrate the practical manufacture of the finer alumed or “white”
leathers. The raw material is in England mostly large market-calf,
though salted and dried skins are sometimes employed. After sufficient
soaking or washing in water, they are limed without arsenic or other
sulphides, in limes which must not be allowed to grow stale or putrid,
until the hair can be easily removed. After unhairing and fleshing in
the usual way, they receive a few days in a pretty fresh lime, in order
to plump them, and are then freed from lime gradually but as completely
as possible, by successive steepings and washings in water softened by a
mixture of that already used on other goods and by working on the beam.
This acts as a partial substitute for puering with dung, which is now no
longer used on calf-kid. The goods are next drenched in the ordinary
way, 3-4 % of bran being used, and the goods allowed to rise two or
three times in the drench, which should be conducted with the usual
precautions (p. 167) to avoid the danger of butyric fermentation in hot
weather. The goods should come out of the drench free from lime, and
unswollen by acid, but full, white, and soft. The tanning (or “tawing”
as it is usually called in the case of alumed goods) is done in a
rotating drum with a mixture of alum or sulphate of alumina, salt,
flour, egg-yolk, and olive oil. About 5 per cent. of flour, 2·5 per
cent. of alum, 1 per cent. of salt, the yolks of 25 eggs, or 1¹⁄₂ lb. of
preserved egg-yolk, 2 oz. of olive oil, and 1¹⁄₄-1¹⁄₂ gallon (12-15 lb.)
of water are required per 100 lb. of wet pelt. The flour is first made
into a smooth paste with a little water, the egg-yolk, somewhat diluted
with warm water and strained, is mixed in together with the oil, and
finally the alum and salt solution is added at such a temperature as to
bring the whole mixture to blood-heat (38° C.). The length of drumming
depends on the thickness of the skins, several hours being required for
very thick ones, but care must be taken to stop and ventilate the drum
at frequent intervals, so as to prevent the skins becoming hot by
friction. This part of the process was formerly accomplished by treading
with bare feet in a tub. After tawing, the goods are allowed to lie in
piles over-night, or are sometimes laid in tanks for a day or so with
any that remains of the tawing paste, to complete the absorption of the
salt and alum, and are then frequently split with the band-knife
machine, though it would be better, as is often done on the Continent,
to split them before tawing, the materials of which are not only costly,
but unfit the splits for many purposes for which they might be employed.
The drying should be rapid, but is best done first at a moderate
temperature, or in the open air, and then in a rather hot stove. They
may now be allowed to “age” from one to three months, but it is usually
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account