The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
goods are rubbed over with a final gloss, for which Eitner gives the
following recipe:--8 liters olive oil, 500 grm. tallow, 500 grm. yellow
wax, 500 grm. rosin, 500 grm. gum arabic. (No water is given in the
recipe, but the gum arabic is presumably softened in water.) The
mixture is cooked for two hours in an earthen pot till the water is
evaporated, and allowed to cool with constant stirring. The skins are
then rubbed with a flannel with a very small sprinkling of French chalk,
and are ready for sale.
[Illustration: FIG. 38.--The Slocomb Staking Machine.]
The manufacture of glove-kid is quite similar in principle to that just
described, but varied in detail to suit the softer and more delicate
skins employed, to give greater softness, and especially the quality of
stretching in any direction without springing back, which is so
characteristic of the leather. Lamb-skins are the principal raw
material, though genuine kid is also employed for the best qualities.
The manufacture varies much with the quality and character of the goods.
The skins, which are mostly dried, are soaked in clean and cool water
for three to four days, according to age and thickness. Common qualities
(small imported slink lambs) are often unhaired by dipping in or
painting with a paste of gas-lime, lime and sulphide of sodium, or lime
and red arsenic, so as to destroy the wool. Better skins are sometimes
unhaired by painting on the flesh with lime alone or in mixture, and in
other cases ordinary lime-pits are used, with limes, which are most
usually strengthened with red arsenic, which is added to the lime while
hot from slaking (cp. p. 142).
The calcic sulphydrate (and perhaps sulpharsenite) thus formed hastens
the unhairing, and preserves the gloss of the grain. Well conducted
glove-kid establishments avoid as much as possible the use of old limes,
which produce a loose, porous leather, with a rough, dull grain. The
liming lasts on the average ten days, and is of the greatest importance.
It is essential that the inter-fibrillary substance should be dissolved,
that the leather may have the quality known in Germany as _Stand_, that
is to say, may be strongly stretched in either length or breadth without
springing back. It also depends upon the liming (and this is of special
importance in the case of lamb-skins), whether the tissue of the
fat-glands is well loosened, so that the fat, either as such, or as
lime- or ammonia-soap, may be readily and completely worked out. Skins
in which this is neglected can never be properly dyed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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