The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
This completes the tawing process. The goods are now “aged” as in
calf-kid manufacture. Before dyeing they are washed with tepid water to
remove part of the tawing mixture, and especially, superfluous alum and
salt, and are re-egged much like calf-kid, before dyeing if the latter
is done by brushing, and after if in the dye-tray or paddle. Aniline
colours are more used than formerly, especially for topping and
brightening the natural colours, but the dyewoods and other mordant
colours are still largely employed. The leather is first prepared with
an alkaline mordant (stale urine, ammonia, etc.) (cp. p. 413), then
repeatedly brushed with or dipped in the dyewood liquor, and a wash
(“striker,” German _Ueberstrich_) containing some metallic salt is
generally applied, with the object either of bringing out the special
tone required, or of making the colour more lively and permanent. The
striker is usually a solution of one of the so-called “vitriols”: “white
vitriol” (zinc sulphate), “blue vitriol” (copper sulphate), “green
vitriol” (iron sulphate), or occasionally other salts.
After the dyeing, the skins, if dipped, are wrung out and re-egged; if
brush-dyed, sleeked out with a brass or ebonite sleeker to get rid of
superfluous water. They are then dried in an airy room. Before staking
(stretching), the skins are laid or hung in a damp cellar, or in moist
saw-dust. They are staked twice: once damp, and once nearly dry; and are
finished by glassing or ironing.
Skins which are much damaged on the grain, or otherwise faulty, are
smoothed with lump pumice on the flesh side, or fluffed with fine emery
on the fluffing wheel. They are then dyed on the flesh side, mostly by
dipping, but occasionally with the brush, in which case, the method
described is slightly modified.
Tawing with alum and salt is frequently employed for commoner and
stronger leathers, such as aprons (of sheep-skin), leather for
whip-lashes, laces for belts, and “skivers” for capping chemists’
bottles. The process is practically the same as for calf-kid, except
that no egg, and little flour is used. Often flour is entirely omitted,
and the goods may then be alumed in tubs, in which they are merely
handled, as the alum solution penetrates quickly. Goods which are
required white are frequently handled or tumbled with a milk of
“whitening,” both to improve the colour, and to neutralise any acid
present, and fix the alum by rendering it more basic. Alumed goods can
be stuffed with greases, either by hand or in the drum, after thorough
softening by staking.
Alum, and other salts of alumina are frequently used in
combination-tanning with vegetable materials (see Chap. XVII.). “Green”
leather for laces, “dongola,” and “dog-skin” glove-leathers are made in
this way. Glazed kid for ladies’ shoes must be slightly vegetable-tanned
on the surface, or it will not glaze, but this is frequently
accomplished by the use of materials in the dye-liquor containing
tannins.
CHAPTER XV.
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