The Private Life of the RomansJohnston, Harold Whetstone
History
The Private Life of the Romans
Johnston, Harold Whetstone
Rome -- Social life and customs
§243. Those who attempt the reconstruction of the toga wholly or
chiefly from works of art find it impossible to reproduce on the
living form the drapery seen on the statues, with a toga of one piece
of goods or of a semicircular pattern. An experimental form is shown
in Fig. 86, and resembles that of a lamp shade cut in two and
stretched out to its full extent. The dotted line _GC_ is the straight
edge of the goods; the heavy lines show the shape of the toga after it
had been cut out, and had had sewed upon it the ellipse-like piece
marked _FRAcba_. The dotted line _GE_ is of a length equivalent to the
height of a man at the shoulder, and the other measurements are to be
calculated proportionately. When the toga is placed on the figure the
point _E_ must be on the left shoulder, with the point _G_ touching
the ground in front. The point _F_ comes at the back of the neck, and
as the larger part of the garment is allowed to fall behind the figure
the points _L_ and _M_ will fall on the calves of the legs behind, the
point _a_ under the right elbow, and the point _b_ on the stomach. The
material is carried behind the back and under the right arm and then
thrown over the left shoulder again. The point _c_ will fall on _E_,
and the portion _OPCa_ will hang down the back to the ground, as shown
in Fig. 85, §242. The part _FRA_ is then pulled over the right
shoulder to cover the right side of the chest and form the _sinus_,
and the part running from the left shoulder to the ground in front is
pulled up out of the way of the feet, worked under the diagonal folds
and allowed to fall out a little to the front. The front should then
present an appearance similar to that shown in the figure in §241. It
will be found in practice, however, that much of the grace of the toga
must have been due to the trained _vestiplicus_, who kept it properly
creased when it was not in use and carefully arranged each fold after
his master had put it on. We are not told of any pins or tapes to hold
it in place, but are told that the part falling from the left shoulder
to the ground behind kept all in position by its own weight, and that
this weight was sometimes increased by lead sewed in the hem.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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