§246. Kinds of Togas.--The toga of the ordinary citizen was, like the tunic (§238), of the natural color of the white wool of which it was made, and varied in texture, of course, with the quality of the wool. It was called _toga pūra_ (or _virīlis_, _lībera_ §127). A dazzling brilliancy could be given to the toga by a preparation of fuller's chalk, and one so treated was called _toga splendēns_ or _candida_. In such a toga all persons running for office arrayed themselves, and from it they were called _candidātī_. The curule magistrates, censors, and dictators wore the _toga praetexta_, differing from the ordinary toga only in having a purple border. It was also worn by boys (§127) and by the chief officers of the free towns and colonies. The _toga picta_ was wholly of purple covered with embroidery of gold, and was worn by the victorious general in his triumphal procession and later by the Emperors. The _toga pulla_ was simply a dingy toga worn by persons in mourning or threatened with some calamity, usually a reverse of political fortune. Persons assuming it were called _sordidātī_ and were said _mūtāre vestem_. This _vestis mūtātiō_ was a common form of public demonstration of sympathy with a fallen leader. In this case curule magistrates contented themselves with merely laying aside the _toga praetexta_ for the _toga pūra_, and only the lower orders wore the _toga pulla_. §247. The Lacerna.--In Cicero's time there was just coming into fashionable use a mantle called _lacerna_, which seems to have been first used by soldiers and the lower classes and then adopted by their betters on account of its convenience. These wore it at first over the toga as a protection against dust and sudden showers. It was a woolen mantle, short, light, open at the sides, without sleeves, but fastened with a brooch or buckle on the right shoulder. It was so easy and comfortable that it began to be worn not over the toga but instead of it, and so generally that Augustus issued an edict forbidding it to be used in public assemblages of citizens. Under the later Emperors, however, it came into fashion again, and was the common outer garment at the theaters. It was made of various colors, dark naturally for the lower classes, white for formal occasions, but also of brighter hues. It was sometimes supplied with a hood (_cucullus_), which the wearer could pull over the head as a protection or a disguise. No representation of the _lacerna_ in art has come down to us that can be positively identified; that in Rich s.v. is very doubtful. The military cloak, first called the _trabea_, then _palūdāmentum_ and _sagum_, was much like the _lacerna_, but made of heavier material. [Illustration: FIGURE 89. THE PAENULA]