The Private Life of the RomansJohnston, Harold Whetstone
History
The Private Life of the Romans
Johnston, Harold Whetstone
Rome -- Social life and customs
the host his utensils and helpers, just as a plumber or surgeon
responds to a call nowadays.
§300. The last two centuries of the Republic saw all this changed. The
conquest of Greece and the wars in Asia Minor gave the Romans a taste
of eastern luxury, and altered their simple table customs, as other
customs had been altered by like contact with the outside world (§§5,
101, 112, 192). From this time the poor and the rich no longer fared
alike. The former constrained by poverty lived frugally as of old:
every schoolboy knows that the soldiers who won Caesar's battles for
him lived on grain (§282 and note), which they ground in their
handmills and baked at their campfires. The very rich, on the other
hand, aping the luxury of the Greeks but lacking their refinement,
became gluttons instead of gourmands. They ransacked the world[4] for
articles of food, preferring the rare and the costly to what was
really palatable and delicate. They measured the feast by the
quantities they could consume, reviving the sated appetite by piquant
sauces and resorting to emetics to prolong the pleasures of the table
and prevent the effects of over-indulgence. The separate dining-room
(_trīclīnium_) was introduced, the great houses having two or more
(§204), and the _oecī_ (§207) were pressed into service for banquet
halls. The dining couch (§224) took the place of the bench or stool,
slaves served the food to the reclining guests, a dinner dress (§249)
was devised, and every _familia urbāna_ (§149) included a high-priced
chef with a staff of trained assistants. Of course there were always
wealthy men, Atticus, the friend of Cicero, for example (§155), who
clung to the simpler customs of the earlier days, but these could make
little headway against the current of senseless dissipation and
extravagance. Over against these must be set the fawning poor, who
preferred the fleshpots of the rich patron (§§181, 182) to the bread
of honest independence. Between the two extremes was a numerous middle
class of the well-to-do, with whose ordinary meals we are more
concerned than with the banquets of the very rich. These meals were
the _ientāculum_, the _prandium_, and the _cēna_.
[Footnote 4: Gellius (2d century A.D.) gives a list from a satirical
poem of Varro: Peacock from Samos, heath-cock from Phrygia, crane from
Media, kid from Ambracia, young tunny-fish from Chalcedon, _mūrēna_
from Tartessus, cod (?) from Pessinus, oysters from Tarentum, scallop
from Chios (?), sturgeon (?) from Rhodes, _scarus_ from Cilicia, nuts
from Thasos, dates from Egypt, chestnuts (?) from Spain.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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