The Progress of Invention in the Nineteenth Century.Byrn, Edward W. (Edward Wright)
History
The Progress of Invention in the Nineteenth Century.
Byrn, Edward W. (Edward Wright)
Inventions -- History; Inventions -- History -- 19th century
From the foregoing table it will be seen that as far back as a quarter
of a century ago the output of machines was over a half a million a
year. By 1877 all of the fundamental patents on the sewing machine had
expired, but the continued activity of inventors in this field is
attested by the fact that to-day there are many thousands of patents
relating to the sewing machine and its parts. Besides those relating to
the organization of the machine itself there is an endless variety of
attachments, such as hemmers, tuckers, fellers, quilters, binders,
gatherers and rufflers, embroiderers, corders and button hole
attachments. Every part of the machine has also received separate
attention and separate patents, all tending to the perfection of the
machine, until to-day, with all fundamental principles public property,
and endless improvements in details, it is difficult to discriminate as
to comparative excellence.
There is to-day a great variety of sewing machines on the market,
standard machines for ordinary work, and special machines for numerous
special applications. It is said that one concern alone manufactures
over four hundred different varieties of sewing machines.
One of the most important and revolutionary of the applications of the
sewing machine is for making shoes. Prior to 1861 shoemaking was
confined to the slow, laborious hand methods of the shoemaker. Cheap
shoes could only be made by roughly fastening the soles to the uppers by
wooden pegs, whose row of projecting points within has made many a man
and boy do unnecessary penance. Hand sewed shoes cost from $8 to $12 a
pair, and were too expensive a luxury for any but the rich. With the
McKay shoe sewing machine in 1861, however, comfortable shoes were made,
with the soles strongly and substantially sewed to the uppers, at a less
price even than the coarse and clumsy pegged variety. The McKay machine
was the result of more than three years patient study and work. It was
covered by United States patents No. 35,105, April 29, 1862; No. 35,165,
May 6, 1862; No. 36,163, Aug. 12, 1862; and No. 45,422, Dec. 13, 1864,
and its development cost $130,000 before practical results were
obtained. A modern form of it is shown in Fig. 147. In preparing a shoe
for the machine, an inner sole is placed on the last, the upper is then
lasted and its edges secured to the inner sole. An outer sole, channeled
to receive the stitches, is then tacked on so that the edges of the
upper are caught and retained between the two soles. The shoe is then
placed on the end of a rotary support called a horn, which holds it up
to the needle. A spool containing thread coated with shoemakers’ wax is
carried by the horn, and the thread, with its wax kept soft by a lamp,
runs up the inside of the horn to the whirl. The latter is a small ring
placed at the upper end of the horn, and through which there is an
opening for the passage of the needle. The needle has a barb, or hook,
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