The Prose Works of Percy Bysshe Shelley, Vol. 2 [of 2]Shelley, Percy Bysshe
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The Prose Works of Percy Bysshe Shelley, Vol. 2 [of 2]
Shelley, Percy Bysshe
English prose literature
March 26, Thursday.--We travel towards the mountains, and begin to
enter the valleys of the Alps. The country becomes covered again with
verdure and cultivation, and white chateaux and scattered cottages
among woods of old oak and walnut trees. The vines are here peculiarly
picturesque; they are trellised upon immense stakes, and the trunks
of them are moss-covered and hoary with age. Unlike the French vines,
which creep lowly on the ground, they form rows of interlaced bowers,
which, when the leaves are green and the red grapes are hanging among
those hoary branches, will afford a delightful shadow to those who sit
upon the moss underneath. The vines are sometimes planted in the open
fields, and sometimes among lofty orchards of apple and pear-trees, the
twigs of which were just becoming purple with the bursting blossoms.
We dined at Les Eschelles, a village at the foot of the mountain of
the same name, the boundaries of France and Savoy. Before this we had
been stopped at Pont Bonvoisin, where the legal limits of the French
and Sardinian territories are placed. We here heard that a Milanese
had been sent back all the way to Lyons, because his passport was
unauthorised by the Sardinian Consul, a few days before, and that
we should be subjected to the same treatment. We, in respect to the
character of our nation I suppose, were suffered to pass. Our books,
however, were, after a long discussion, sent to Chambery, to be
submitted to the censor; a priest, who admits nothing of Rousseau,
Voltaire, &c., into the dominions of the King of Sardinia. All such
books are burned.
After dinner we ascended Les Eschelles, winding along a road, cut
through perpendicular rocks, of immense elevation, by Charles Emanuel,
Duke of Savoy, in 1582. The rocks, which cannot be less than a thousand
feet in perpendicular height, sometimes overhang the road on each
side, and almost shut out the sky. The scene is like that described
in the Prometheus of Æschylus. Vast rifts and caverns in the granite
precipices, wintry mountains with ice and snow above; the loud sounds
of unseen waters within the caverns, and walls of toppling rocks, only
to be scaled as he describes, by the winged chariot of the ocean nymphs.
Under the dominion of this tyranny, the inhabitants of the fertile
valleys, bounded by these mountains, are in a state of most frightful
poverty and disease. At the foot of this ascent, were cut into the
rocks at several places, stories of the misery of the inhabitants, to
move the compassion of the traveller. One old man, lame and blind,
crawled out of a hole in the rock, wet with the perpetual melting of
the snows of above, and dripping like a shower-bath.
The country, as we descended to Chambéry, continued as beautiful;
though marked with somewhat of a softer character than before; we
arrived a little after night-fall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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