The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians ThereinHardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
History
The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians Therein
Hardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
Peru -- Description and travel; Peruvian Amazon Company; Putumayo River; Rubber industry and trade -- Peru
The remaining "first-class" passenger was a Brazilian custom-house
inspector, who always travelled with the company's launches in order to
see that they did not discharge any cargo while passing through
Brazilian territory. He seemed a very quiet chap, I imagine because he
did not know Spanish. This gentleman spent most of his time in his
hammock, for, like Sánchez and myself, he had no cabin.
Lunch and dinner were very similar to breakfast, for we had the same
watery tea, the same stale bread, and the same stinking butter, the only
additional dish being a repugnant preparation of codfish. The
pirate-captain and his chum, the _comisario_, however, as I ascertained
later, after eating a little of this miserable stuff, adjourned to the
former's cabin and enjoyed a magnificent spread, all by themselves.
We continued running all night, for the river was swollen and there was
no necessity to follow the main channel. At about two o'clock in the
afternoon we reached the mouth of the Igaraparaná, which is considerably
larger than the Caraparaná and also on the left. Near the junction was a
small, cleared area on the high left bank of the Putumayo, and to this
we directed our course. Anchoring close to the bank, I perceived that
the place was a military post, for, as soon as we approached a number of
soldiers--about twenty--and two officers emerged from an old tumble-down
structure that sheltered them, and came on board. They all looked ill
and emaciated, and their faces and hands were done up in rags to keep
off the gnats.
For over two hours we stopped here, fighting these little fiends, which
swarmed about us in perfect clouds, while the pirate and the _comisario_
related to the two lieutenants a full account of the "brilliant victory"
gained at La Unión. Meanwhile, I learned that the name of the place was
Arica, and that it was situated about 1° 43' 9" south of the equator and
71° 53' 36" west of Greenwich.
At last the enthralling tale of the "victory" was finished, and we set
out up the Igaraparaná, for, it seemed, the worthy Zubiaur had been so
complimented upon his bravery by the two officers that he resolved to go
and inform some other friends of his up that river of the same gallant
deed. We were all glad to set out in some direction, for the gnats did
not trouble us much when the launch was in motion.
The _Liberal_ continued the ascent until a late hour, when we retired.
The next morning when I awoke, I perceived that we were anchored off
another establishment, which I was informed by Albarracín was Santa
Julia, one of the chief sections of the "civilising company" in
Igaraparaná district. The two or three small huts were of split-palm
with a thatched roof, while the clearing around them was small and
neglected-looking. Santa Julia, Ghiorzo informed me, is the
shipping-port for the section Abisinia, some twelve hours' walk inland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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