The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians ThereinHardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
History
The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians Therein
Hardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
Peru -- Description and travel; Peruvian Amazon Company; Putumayo River; Rubber industry and trade -- Peru
Reaching the port with some difficulty, we secured the canoe, climbed up
the steep bank, walked through the clearing, which was sown with _yuca_,
plantains, &c., and arrived at the house. Here we were received in a
friendly manner by an old, tattered-looking _racional_, who upon our
asking for Señor Ordoñez informed us that that gentleman was at La
Unión, the principal establishment of the Company, which was situated on
the banks of the Caraparaná, about three hours' march overland.
Somewhat annoyed at this _contretemps_, which made it necessary for us
to go to that region, Perkins and I held a short consultation, during
which we decided that on the following day I should cross over to La
Unión and arrange with Ordoñez to lend us the necessary _cargadores_ and
buy what effects we wanted, to be disposed of afterwards as quickly as
possible, while Perkins remained with the canoe at Remolino. The old
_racional_ did not have any authority to do business with me, but was
sure that Ordoñez--who seemed to be the principal man--would arrange
matters with us upon any reasonable terms.
During the rest of the day we stopped at Remolino to recuperate, but the
devouring gnats made such pertinacious attacks upon us that we had no
time for resting, being constantly employed in repelling their
onslaughts. The old _racional_ wrapped his feet, head, and arms up in
rags and went to sleep, probably being accustomed to wearing this
armour. On account of the excessive heat we could not endure ours.
At about four o'clock a party of six or seven _racionales_ came over
from La Unión, intending to return there on the following day with some
stores, for it seems that the establishment of Remolino is merely a sort
of receiving station and warehouse. This was a lucky circumstance for
us, as I could accompany them, and thus avoid all danger of losing my
way, for the trail, so our old host informed us, was a mere forest path,
in some places almost impassable.
The next morning at about six o'clock I set out in company with the
_racionales_ through the dense forest. The ground was rolling and cut up
into steep hillocks and precipitous valleys by numerous small
_quebradas_ on their way to join the Putumayo; as the soil was mostly
yellow clay our progress was not rapid. Presently we crossed two rather
large _quebradas_, from twelve to fifteen metres in width, over bridges
in each case formed by the large trunk of a single tree. These the
_racionales_ crossed readily, but I experienced some difficulty in doing
so on account of my slippery shoes. At about ten o'clock a torrential
rain set in, which drenched us within five minutes. Still, we pushed on,
and soon, crossing a comparatively level area, we arrived upon the
right bank of the Caraparaná. We climbed into a canoe, rowed across the
thirty-metre-wide river, and, clambering up the steep, cleared bank,
were at La Unión.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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