The Raisin Industry: A practical treatise on the raisin grapes, their history, culture and curingEisen, Gustavus A.
History
The Raisin Industry: A practical treatise on the raisin grapes, their history, culture and curing
Eisen, Gustavus A.
Raisins; Viticulture -- California
As to the usefulness of steam or fire dryers there can be no doubt. The
idea is not to entirely dry the raisins in them, but only to finish up
the raisins when, on account of unfavorable climatic conditions, they do
not dry any more out-of-doors. The question as to which are best,
“machine-dried” raisins or those dried in the sun, is entirely
unimportant. No one would think of drying raisins entirely in the dryer,
as it would not pay. Raisins properly finished in the dryer are not
inferior to those entirely sun-dried.
_Sweatboxes._--The sweatboxes should be made of strong lumber one inch
thick. The length and width should be according to the size of the tray,
and always one inch larger every way than the tray, in order that the
raisins may be let down readily, or that they may receive a tray. The
height of a sweatbox should be from six to eight inches, no more, as a
greater depth will make them too heavy to be handled with ease by two
men. Six inches in depth is better than eight. In order to secure the
box and prevent it from splitting, the sides should be bound with hide,
iron bands or with twisted galvanized wire. The latter is the strongest
and best, costs the least, and is the easiest to put on.
_Trays for Drying._--The tray consists of a wooden frame made of
well-dried half-inch lumber, nailed to cleats of one inch by one and
one-half inch and of desired length. The lumber most commonly used is
well-seasoned spruce. Pine, if not well seasoned, is apt to give the
raisins a taste of the wood or of rosin, while redwood may discolor the
raisins if exposed to rain or very heavy dew. But as the lumber attains
age, it also becomes less injurious to the grapes. Cottonwood or
poplar-wood, which can be obtained in some places, make most useful
lumber for trays, as they do not contain any taste or other substance
apt to injure the raisins. The size of the tray varies according to the
idea of the raisin-grower, but the size generally adopted is two by
three feet. Formerly a smaller tray was used, but no smaller ones are
now made. A larger size, three by three feet, is used by several
growers, but, while it has the advantage of holding more grapes, it is
also less readily handled than the smaller tray. In the southern part of
California, a tray two and one-half by three feet is very popular. The
tops of the trays are bought in the shape of shingles, which should be
well dried before being nailed, as they will otherwise shrink up and
cause cracks to form in the tray, greatly to the detriment of the drying
of the raisins. Loss is also caused by loose raisins dropping through
such cracks. The cleats should be wet or green, or they will split in
nailing. If too dry, they should be soaked in water over night or for a
few hours. The shingles should be planed on the side which is to be
placed upwards. The cost of the lumber for the trays varies from nine to
twelve and one-half cents in the shooks. For nailing the trays together,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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