The Red Reign: The True Story of an Adventurous Year in RussiaDurland, Kellogg
History
The Red Reign: The True Story of an Adventurous Year in Russia
Durland, Kellogg
Russia -- Politics and government -- 1894-1917
A world exposition, whether at Paris, or St. Louis, is a wearisome thing
after the first one has been seen. The sameness, the fatiguing miles we
walk in vain search for something new--none of this in Nijni. Unless one
has been to Calcutta, and knows his Turkestan, his Caucasia, his
Siberia, and Lapland, Nijni is fascinatingly new.
It is a people’s fair above all else. A practical thing. The annual
exchange of thousands of small things from the mysterious East and the
frozen North, the one ample market of near a million peasants from the
interior governments of Russia. The tourist will not find preparations
to please his extravagant tastes. Utility is the underlying aim of the
Nijni fair, but utility from the standpoint of the needs of the people
who contribute to its upkeep and depend upon its resources. And the
needs of the vast Tartar horde, of stolid muzhiks, and hardy peoples
from polar regions, are wondrously unlike the needs of Europe and the
western world. The bazars of Persia, of Daghestan, and Tashkent range
side by side with booths of pelts from Archangel and Nova Zembla and,
frequently enough to be noticed, a stall of old Cathay attended by
narrow-eyed Orientals in rich, blue silks, their plaited pigtails
glistening black against the bright cloth. A few enterprising European
merchants are represented, but only a few. I met one surprise at a
picture post-card counter. The proprietor, a native Nijni Novgorodian,
asked me if I spoke English. When I answered that I did, he asked me if
I had ever been in England. When I again answered yes, he asked if I had
been also in America. Once more I told him yes. Then he came to the
point. “Have you ever been in Boston?”
“Yes, I know Boston quite well,” I replied.
A wide smile of genuine joy spread over his face as he grasped both my
hands and wrung them in excited cordiality--enthusiastic to a degree
utterly foreign to Boston. Early in his life he had spent four years in
Boston. Since then he has never ceased regretting his inability to
return there. His uncompromising loyalty to what he called “the best
city on earth” would have done credit to any Bostonian of Mayflower
lineage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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