The Red Reign: The True Story of an Adventurous Year in RussiaDurland, Kellogg
History
The Red Reign: The True Story of an Adventurous Year in Russia
Durland, Kellogg
Russia -- Politics and government -- 1894-1917
During the next few days I saw so many exiles in and about Tobolsk that
I gave up the idea of visiting outlying settlements. Since I had neither
the credentials, nor the time, for visiting the prisons, I only hoped
and desired to talk with a fair number of exiles and hear their story of
the conditions of political exile under the “constitution.” This I was
able to accomplish right here.
One house of special interest in Tobolsk that all the politicals pointed
out was a kind of community-house built by the Decembrists of 1825 who
were sent to Tobolsk. During my stay here I met at least two men who had
been exiled in 1878--they had both met Mr. Kennan when he was in Siberia
in 1885, and asked me to carry their greetings to him, and to tell him
that they were still there! One man, Kosturin, has made his lot more
bearable by editing a newspaper, or rather, his wife edits and conducts
the paper--officially.
The season was now advanced, snow-flurries were daily in the air, and
there was a winter crisp in the trees that heralded the near approach of
the icy storms that close Siberia through long months.
At four o’clock one morning we left Tobolsk in a post-chaise and drove
continuously for thirty hours along the great _Trakt_ to Tyumen--a
distance of three hundred versts, stopping only at post-stations to
change horses. In Tyumen we lingered long enough to say good-by to the
men and women we had met coming in, and then traveled by train to
Yekaterinburg.
This trip into Siberia was very short, superficial even, yet it proved
worth while. I got a brief glimpse of the country, I visited the two
most important towns of western Siberia, and I met many splendid men
and women who are doomed to long exile, yet who were of good cheer. To
merely have met them face to face, to have grasped their hands, and
talked with them through the still hours of night--this, alone, was
worth the long journey.
If I had needed any further evidence of the inhuman and utterly blind
policy of the Russian government, I found it here in the treatment
imposed upon men and women that any nation in the world should be proud
of--verily the flower of the land.
At Yekaterinburg six weeks’ mail had accumulated, so that I spent
several days here before crossing the Urals to Perm, where I rested
again for nearly a week, before continuing my journey westward to
Vyatka, which I found in many ways the most interesting province I had
seen in Russia. The peasants there are very progressive, and through
generations of practice have become marvelously skilful in wood-working.
Some of the boxes I saw, with secret compartments, were examples of rare
ingenuity and skill. There is a museum there of the peasant handicrafts
which is most interesting. And withal the Vyatkans have a business sense
which has enabled them to build up a profitable trade in these things
with Siberia and Russia at large, through the Nijni-Novgorod fair and
sales-shops in Moscow and St. Petersburg.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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