It must be conceded that the fen country is forbidding. No doubt it has its compensating moments and aspects, but the intervals of waiting for them must be oppressive. Enthusiasts may be heard anon chanting its praises (theoretically) even as a region of permanent abode, but there is not a little posing nowadays in such matters. In the Middle Ages in the dead of winter the fen country must have been imposing; but the fen from St. Ives to Ely in the height of summer, with its continuously unfenced cultivation, its ever-recurring grain-fields, its lack of wood and of English landscape-graces generally, is very depressing. It is most interesting, however, to watch the isle of Ely rising out of the fat levels and drawing gradually nearer till the road itself at last rises on to it, and the beautiful Cathedral, lifted high above the fen-land and above the East Anglian levels that are not fen, looks southward to where the striking mass of King's Chapel rises beneath the faint smoke-cloud which marks the famous town of Cambridge. We meet the Ouse again at Ely. Since University rowing began it has been associated with Cambridge as an object of pilgrimage to enterprising oarsmen, and in a more professional way the time-honoured seat of the Annual race between the University trial eights. For I trust it is not necessary to remind the reader that the river Cam or Granta flows into the Ouse near Ely. At this preternaturally quiet and diminutive little cathedral town we must leave the Ouse to find its devious and much-bridled way to King's Lynn and to the North Sea. Ely Cathedral is, of course, distinguished for the abundance of perfect Norman work that survives within it, while the old red brick episcopal palace contiguous to it, and the precincts generally, with their snug gardens and whispering leaves, are, as in such a place they should be, the veritable haunts of ancient peace. [Illustration: THE STOUR, NEAR DEDHAM, ESSEX] [Illustration] INDEX _The references in black type refer to illustrations._ Abbot Lichfield, 157 Abbot's Cleeve, 158 Abbots Worthy, 93 Aberedw, 45, 46, 49 Abergwessin, 46 Aberystwith, 40 Adur, the, 211 Aire, the, 233 Allen, the, 102, 106 Aln, the, 102, 130 Alnwick, 129, 130 Alresford, 93, 95, 98, 99 Alston, 105 Amberley, 215, 216 Amesbury, 72, 75, 76, 77, 78 Amesbury Abbey, 76 Apperley Court, 35 Appleby, 137 Appledore, 192 Arley, 21, 22 Armstrongs, the, 144 Arrow, the, 54 Arun, the, 201, =208=, =210=, 213, 214, 216 Arundel, 211, 215, 216 Ashelworth ferry, 35 Ashford, 220 Astley, 26 Atcham, 20 Avebury, 66, 70 Avington Park, 97 Avon, the Bristol, 149, 150, 151, =154= the Devon, 164, 172, 173, 177 the Salisbury, 64, =66=, 71, 72-76, 79, 80, 83-86, 153, 155, 156, 157, =158=, 158, 159 Avon, the Stratford, 152 Axe, the, =204=, 207, 208 Aylesford, 219 Aymestry, 54 Aysgarth Force, 251 Badgworthy, 203, 204 Balliol, Barnard, 266 Barden, 237, 238 Barden Tower, 236 Baring-Gould, 184