The Rivers of Great Britain, Descriptive, Historical, Pictorial: Rivers of the South and West CoastsVarious
History
The Rivers of Great Britain, Descriptive, Historical, Pictorial: Rivers of the South and West Coasts
Various
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Rivers -- Great Britain
The river /Seiont/ is only about thirteen miles long. One seldom
hears mention of its name, except by the trout-fisher, it may be. It
is treated, in general, as of small account. And yet, surely it is
one of the most distinguished rivers of North Wales, for does it not
drain the north-eastern side of Snowdon, and flow through the Pass
of Llanberis, and broaden out into Llyn Peris and Llyn Padarn, and
finally, after devious wanderings, and much merry tumbling among rocks,
boulders, and little reedy islets, culminate in a port, with the great
castle of Carnarvon guarding its exit into the Strait across which one
looks to the lovely island of Anglesea? But if few speak of the Seiont,
there has been unlimited eloquence concerning the grandeur--what the
descriptive writers of the last century would have considered the
awfulness--of the Llanberis Pass. The point of view has changed whilst
the century has been passing away. Where our great-grandfathers spoke
of "horrid scenes" we find nowadays glory of colour, and magnificence
of form, and all the finer characteristics of mountain beauty. But
something, after all, is to be said from the point of view of our
great-grandfathers. We travel through the Pass of Llanberis by coach on
good and safe roads, and they ventured, perforce, along "a horse-path
so rugged that much of it was like going up and down rough stone
stairs."
It was between the two lakes Peris and Padarn, and at the new village
of Llanberis, that the late Poet Laureate foregathered, in his youth,
with his friend Leonard, who sang of "all the cycle of the golden
year":--
"We crost
Between the lakes, and clambered half-way up
The counter side....
... and high above, I heard them blast
The steep slate quarry, and the great echo flap
And buffet round the hill from bluff to bluff."
The first recorded ascent of Snowdon seems to have been made from
the same spot in 1639. "At daybreak on the 3rd of August," says the
seventeenth-century mountaineer, "having mounted our horses, we
proceeded to the British Alps."
After the mountains, Dolbadarn Castle and Ceunant Mawr--the Waterfall
of the Great Chasm--are the principal attractions of Llanberis. The
cataract is upwards of 60 feet in height. It tumbles over a few
ledges, rushes down a wide slope, and falls into a pool below. The
castle is singularly well placed for picturesque effect. The one tower
now remaining occupies the whole of the surface of a rocky eminence,
which presents a precipitous front to the lake, and has a marvellous
background of high-peaked mountains. Often enough it can be seen only
through mists, or driving sheets of rain, for Llanberis seems to be the
home of the rain-cloud and the cradle of the storm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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