And the delightful couple again fade away into the "rich heart of the west." [Illustration: THE ESK, NEAR GILNOCKIE (_p. 315_).] There is no end to those ballads and traditions! The very streams in their flow seem to murmur of them. But few can find place here; yet how can we pass from Eskdale and leave untouched its sweetest spot, its most, tragic story, its most pathetic song? Kirtle Water, after a short course of a little over sixteen miles, runs into the Solway at Kirtle Foot, near the head of the Firth. In the parish of Kirkpatrick-Fleming it passes through "fair Kirkconnel Lee," where, in the churchyard of Kirkconnel, sleep the ashes of Helen and her lover. According to the well-known tradition, she was loved by Fleming of Redhall and Bell of Blacket. The latter was not the favoured one, and basely tried to slay Fleming. Helen threw herself in the path of the murderer's bullet, and perished to save her friend. Fleming did speedy justice on his cruel foe, wandered in far lands for many years, and returned to die and be buried in the same grave with the love of his youth. Of the ancestral tower of the Flemings not a fragment is left; and Dryasdust still dully debates the exact measure of historic truth in the story. Some great but unknown poet long ago moulded the passionate complaint of Fleming into imperishable verse, with its mournful refrain:-- "I wish I were where Helen lies, Night and day on me she cries; O that I were where Helen lies, On fair Kirkconnel Lee!" [Illustration: HIGH STREET, DUMFRIES (_p. 319_).] * * * * * Annandale is the second division of Dumfries. /Annan/ means in Celtic "quiet water"; perhaps that river was called so in fear, to propitiate the water-sprite, as malignant fairies were dubbed "the good people" to ward off their anger. Allan Cunningham lauds it as the "Silver Annan," but none the less he has some hard words for it:-- "The cushat, hark, a tale of woe Is to its true love telling; And Annan stream in drowning wrath Is through the greenwood swelling." And the old ballad of "Annan Water" calls it a "drumlie river," and tells a most melancholious tale of a lover and his steed drowned whilst attempting to cross it to keep tryst with his love, Annie, who, we are assured, was "wondrous bonny." The last verse warns the river that a bridge will presently be thrown over, that "ye nae mair true love may sever": the prosaic purposes of transit to kirk or market being, of course, quite unworthy of a minstrel's mention. Well! Annan has its moods--quiet and gentle in the pleasant summer days, given to violent outbursts in time of spate.