“I will travel overland,” he said. De Lesseps had still to carve the
Suez Canal out of the desert sands. Why should Layard coop himself
up in a ship and make his slow way all round Africa to India? It
was then the usual way, but the usual way was not Layard’s way. He
studied his maps and traced his route. Travelling overland would give
him a splendid opportunity of seeing the world, and he hugged the
secret thought in his heart that he would be able to wander in the
lands of his dreams, to see Constantinople and Baghdad.
He received £600 from his mother, to set him on the road to fame and
fortune. Half this sum was sent to a bank in Ceylon so that he might
collect it on his arrival, the other half he carried with him to pay
his expenses on the long journey half across the world. He was only
twenty-two years old when he said good-bye to his mother, and set out
with a friend in 1839 to make his way to Ceylon. By the autumn they
were adventuring in Syria. They had no one to guide them, no servants
to wait on them. They tended their own horses, and for the rest
relied on their youth and their weapons.
Layard’s thoughts turned in the direction of Nineveh and Babylon,
and his horse’s head was turned in the same direction. He realized
that the opportunity of seeing the land might never recur. So in the
spring of 1840 the two friends jogged along from Aleppo to Mosul.
They were lucky to get through unscathed, for the Arabs were warring
with each other on all sides. The dwellers of the deserts were
raiding right and left, and Layard often happened on encampments
that were picked clean by the marauders. Once or twice the young
Englishmen came upon bands of the raiders, but their luck stood
them in good stead and they passed on their way unmolested. The two
friends made light of these adventures, yet there was always the
chance that a bullet might stretch them dead on the desert sands and
that they would for ever disappear in the East.
The great mounds of Nimroud, opposite Mosul, wielded a potent spell
over Layard. He climbed about them, dreamed over them, picked up bits
of brick with arrow-headed writing on them. Often he asked himself
what lay under his feet. He saw bits of alabaster sticking out of
the soil where the rains had washed them bare. The remains of a dam
peeped out of the river Tigris. He asked an Arab who built it.
[Illustration:
_By courtesy of the British School at Athens_
EXCAVATING THE THRONE ROOM AT KNOSSOS. THE STONE THRONE MAY BE SEEN
IN THE BACKGROUND (_see page 185_)]
[Illustration:
_By courtesy of R. Campbell Thomson_
THE DESOLATION OF NINEVEH. THIS HILL WAS ONCE ONE OF THE WALLS OF THE
CAPITAL OF ASSYRIA]
“Nimrod,” said the Arab, referring to the great mythical god of the
past.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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