The passing of the years has not diminished the wonder. All the time
Layard carried his life in his hand. He took risks no native of
the country would face. Once he was hunting a wolf, when his horse
slipped and threw him right on top of the animal he was hunting.
Layard picked himself up, by which time the startled wolf had made
off. Often he rode boldly into the tents of unfriendly Arabs, and
came out unharmed. With his imperious words he brought insolent
chiefs to heel, made them feel the strength of his personality, and
sometimes the strength of his arm.
He lived a strenuous life, slaving on far into the dreadful heat of
summer, erecting a bower of branches beside the river to sleep in.
The ruins were infested with scorpions, yet he escaped their sting.
He was not so lucky with the mosquitoes. Nothing alive could escape
these winged pests. He had attack after attack of malaria. Often he
was so stricken with fever that he found it impossible to work at
all. In spite of all these drawbacks and difficulties, he triumphed.
Once when he was investigating the ruins of Babylon, a Turkish
governor presented him with an unruly lion! Another time he was
travelling over the desert under the escort of an Arab chief, when a
thief stole two of his horses. Taking the blame on himself, the chief
vowed solemnly to recover the animals, no matter how long it took,
even if it meant going to the ends of the earth. Layard parted from
the chief at the end of his journey, and gave no further thought to
the incident. For six weeks the chief relentlessly tracked the stolen
horses from place to place, and one day he quietly rode into Layard’s
encampment and left the two horses for their owner. Without waiting
for thanks, he rode swiftly away.
Extraordinary results were achieved by Layard with the little
money at his command. Certainly his scale of wages would not now
be considered very extravagant. He paid his diggers sixpence a
day; those who filled the baskets fourpence a day, the labourers
threepence, and the boys twopence. It seems little enough, but the
tent-dwellers had no rent, rates or taxes to pay, and in those days
they could buy 240 lb. of corn for two shillings. To many of them,
living on the border line of starvation, a settled wage of two or
three shillings a week meant affluence.
Layard himself had a host of duties to perform, not least of which
were sketching the sculptures as they were revealed and making
immediate copies of all inscriptions found. Such work had to be done
at once for fear the stone crumbled to pieces, for much of it only
lasted a short time after being uncovered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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