The interior consists of two great concentric corridors with large
recesses for the images. Most of the images are standing figures;
the Buddha alone is either seated or reclining, in various attitudes
of benediction, or preaching on elevated lotus-shaped pedestals. The
vaulted cells in which the Buddha is seated reach up to the second and
sometimes to the third terrace, and from a small window in the roof
there streams a flood of sunlight downwards on the head and shoulders
of the colossus, with wonderful effect.
There is great uncertainty about the dates and builders of these
three temples, and I know nothing more interesting and beautiful than
the legend which is attached to the spot on which they stand. In the
Siamese annals, however, it is stated that these temples have stood
here for nearly twelve hundred years, embedded in what was once a
sacred grove of olive, palm, and boh trees, before Bangkok was ever
settled, and in the palmy days of the ancient and beautiful city of
Ayodhya or Ayudia; that they then attracted pilgrims from all parts of
the world, particularly women, who came to perform vows or to offer
votive sacrifices at their shrines.
It was P'hra P'huthi Chow L'huang, a usurper, who, in order to
establish more securely his throne, selected the vicinity of these
triad temples as the seat of government, removed his palace from the
west to the east bank of the Mèinam, founded a city, surrounded it with
triple walls, and called it the abode of the beautiful and invincible
archangel.
As often as I sat in the porches of these temples, the chanted prayers
of the worshippers boomed through the aisles and inspired me with
feelings of the deepest devotion; and whenever I passed along the dim,
silent corridors, and came unexpectedly in front of one of the great
golden images with its folded arms and drooping eyelids, looking down
upon me in monitory sadness, with the wisdom of ages stamped upon its
brow, amid the gloom of a never-ending twilight, while the head and
shoulders were illuminated by a halo of light from the unseen source
above, the effect was strangely mystical, solemn, and profound.
The character of these buildings I do not exaggerate in calling them
sublime; they prove unmistakably that the architect, whoever he was,
"Wrought in a sad sincerity;
Himself from God he could not free;
He builded better than he knew:
The conscious stone to beauty grew."
This impression was deepened every time I visited them, and, though I
knew every inch of the temples and their surroundings, the meanings
of some of the symbols remained mysterious and incomprehensible. If
I succeeded in unravelling one portion, the remainder was lost in
inextricable perplexity and doubt.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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