The Roof of France; Or, the Causses of the LozèreBetham-Edwards, Matilda
General
The Roof of France; Or, the Causses of the Lozère
Betham-Edwards, Matilda
Lozère (France : Dept.) -- Description and travel
We drive on to our destination, the Île Barbe, a narrow wooded islet,
dividing the Saône into two branches, and forming the favourite
holiday-ground of the Lyonnais. The rich hire a special pleasure-boat
or carriage; the happy tourist is, perhaps, like myself, driven thither
by ever-hospitable, too hospitable, French friends, who, not content
with affording their guests a day's unmitigated pleasure, invariably
contrive to eliminate every element of fatigue. Holiday-making is
indeed cultivated to the point of a fine art in France.
For slender purses there are cheap boats, cheap railways, and the
omnibus. It does one's heart good to see scores of family parties
to-day availing themselves of the superb weather and taking a last
picnic. In every green, shady nook we see a merry group squatted on the
ground, relishing their cold patties, fruit and wine, as they can only
be relished out of doors. The babies, nursemaids, and pet dogs are
there. Breakfast over, the holiday-makers amuse themselves,
grandparents and bantlings, with fishing for minnows in the clear
waters.
How merry are all! How all too swiftly fleet the bright hours!
In the spacious, terraced garden of the restaurant we find dozens of
tables spread for richer folk. We prefer the cool, quiet dining-room,
which we have to ourselves, after all. The food is not of the choicest,
the wine compels criticism between each course, we have to wait long
enough for the making of an ordinary meal; but French gaiety and
good-nature overlook these drawbacks, and the charming view of the
river and its wooded banks, the freshness of the air, the atmosphere of
gala and relaxation, make up for everything; the bill is cheerfully
paid, and all but the separate items of the day's enjoyment forgotten.
Perhaps the charm of a French picnic is enhanced by the fact that it is
never made too long. Our neighbours do not make what is called 'a day
of it,' but wisely prefer to take their pleasure as they do their
champagne--in moderation. We drive home, feeling fresh and alert as
when we set out.
Everyone is abroad. As we pass through the workman's suburb, the
ultra-socialist, ultra-revolutionary quarter of the city, in which
political passions have so often raged hotly, and popular feeling has
taken incendiary form, we find only peacefulness and calm. The
socialist and red-revolutionary, in his Sunday's best, sits before his
front door, reading a newspaper, playing with his baby or chatting with
a neighbour. Pet dogs and cats sun themselves with a lazy, Sunday air,
girls and lovers flirt, children play, gossips tell each other the
news. It is difficult to believe that we are passing the stormiest
quarter of the stormiest city in France. All is as quiet as the
riverside scenes we have just left.
With this delightful recollection I close my latest--not, I trust,
last--French journey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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