China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
THE CITY OF THE REBORN GOD
The murmur of many voices pierces the blanket over your head.
Sleepy-eyed in the warmth, you peer out from the chrysalis of coverings
to watch the people moving about. Alexsimevich has extricated himself
from the mound which he constructs nightly on the floor, out of
luggage-bags, felt mats, rugs, and overcoats. Under all the heaped
wrappings that he uses in the icy Mongol tents, he has camped and slept
close up against the white wall of the oven. Truly the Siberian is
brother to the salamander. He pulls on now his big felt boots and runs
a pocket-comb through his beard.
The wife of our host, come to the door for a survey, notes progress and
returns to the female region. The Hazan Varlakoff, gray-bloused and
wearing deerskin boots, enters next. He lights his first cigarette; his
wife with the bowl of sugar and the plate of bread follows. She has
gotten up earlier than her husband, so she is several cigarettes ahead,
but he is cutting down the lead.
Perhaps one had better get up one’s self. It is an easy operation
here. “Getting up” consists in emerging from the rolled blankets and
stretching. “Dressing” means pulling on boots. One can wash over in
the corner, where the brass can lets out a trickling stream of cold
water when the needle-valve underneath is pushed up.
The samovar hums on the red cotton cloth of the table. Varlakoff moves
along to make room. From the little pot of infused tea your glass is
partly filled; then you place it under the spigot for hot water, and
the beverage is ready for sipping. No lemons are here, as in Russia. In
a few Chinese shops one can buy spherical citrons, but they are like
unripe oranges, and are a luxury as great as pineapples in old New York.
A wool-buyer from Kiahta reaches for the bowl of broken loaf-sugar,
and holds it for you to choose the piece whose size pleases best. The
housewife comes from the kitchen over by her oven-door, bringing some
crestfallen cake which she has made in your honor.
“_Kuchete! kuchete!_” she commands, arms akimbo, puffing contentedly on
her cigarette.
We revel in the luxuries of Varlakoff’s room; warmth such that we may
take off the cumbersome outer coats; chairs to sit upon, instead of
crouching cross-legged; hot samovar-made drinks, and a chance to wash
in water. The latter is a privilege which can be appreciated only after
a period of ablutions in lukewarm tea. We stretch out and bask and sip,
and whiff _papirosi_ in epicurean idleness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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