China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
The section of the Russian colony in which we have been lodging
consists of five hundred-odd traders. They have drifted down from
Siberia, and on the free ground of taxless Urga have established their
shops of gaudy European cloths, enameled cooking-utensils, candles,
and cutlery. These Russians, whose whitewashed many-paned houses fill
a quarter of the town, have not the large interests watched by the
English merchants, who dot the globe with their agencies. They are
small Trans-Baikal shopkeepers, transplanted bodily. They build their
houses in the Siberian way, and their wives toil personally at the
oven. They wear blouses and felt boots as the house-dress, and keep the
ikons in the corner. Prosperity is evidenced in the striking-clocks,
the lamps, nickeled samovars, and curtained double windows. But they
are still not many removes from the peasant.
There is, however, another section of Urga’s Russian colony, grouped
around the consulate, a large compound situated a verst east of the
Mongol town, which was built in 1863, and was fortified in 1900,
against the Boxers. Within this compound are the Orthodox Church, the
Russian doctor, the rooms of the twenty Cossacks of the Guard, and the
great empty barracks of the two _sotnias_ that were sent here in Boxer
times, and were, to the regret of their compatriots, later removed. The
barracks are still ready for any future visits, and the breastwork,
with its stake and fosse lined with barbed-wire, is equal to any force
which from a five-hundred-verst radius can assemble against it.
In this quarter, the Russian consul is autocrat. He is the official
notary, without whose stamp no contract is legal, the chief of police,
the guardian of orphans. Around him revolves the society of the few
dozen mondaines of Urga, whose personnel consists of the officials,
the garrison officers, and some half-dozen commercial agents, single
generally, or with distant families. They conduct their bachelor
quarters through Chinese servants, and their cuisines are helped out
by all the canned and bottled delicacies that can be ordered from the
frontier. The gold-mines, and the extensive wool-trade which produces
a commerce of twenty to thirty millions, demand that first-grade men
watch the interests of the great companies which handle the business.
So men of the best cosmopolitan Russian type come, at salaries
proportioned to their sacrifice. They gather in the consulate evenings,
or sit in the fenced-off boxes at the theatrical performances, which
periodically come down from Kiahta.
A few families who have made their sixteen-day camel-trip from Kalgan
and Peking have foregathered here with their household goods and gods.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account