China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
How different is this Chinese settlement from Mongol Urga! It is a
magnified replica of the city at the frontiers. Instead of the straggly
avenues a hundred yards broad, with cañon-like alleys flanked by
high mud walls, all the streets are so narrow that two strides cross
them. They are lined with miniature booths. Through the bars of their
paper-paned windows one sees the little delicately-tinted pictures of
pagodas and of Chinese girls, in quaint sweeping outlines. Red and
black and gold, the New Year placards flame on every post and wall.
Lanterns are hung before the gateways; green saplings stand sentinel
by the doors; and in the unshuttered compounds innumerable lines of
gaudy banners are seen, strung from side to side across the courtyards.
From the houses come from time to time a thrumming and a picking of
strings in minor music, broken by an occasional clang of cymbals or a
drone of beaten drums. You pass a temple of marvelously carved wood,
wrought into curves and flowers and arabesques, with eaves turning out
into open-mouthed dragons. Everything is brilliant in paint and gilt--a
blazing kaleidoscope of color.
In a friendly courtyard the horses are tied, and you walk into the
teeming streets. All the Chinese of Maimachen and half the Mongols of
Urga have come out to-day. Here is a little shifty-eyed Chinese clerk,
in his low shoes, with white soles several inches thick, his white
stockings, tied at the ankle, showing below the baggy trousers.
Here is a young Mongol lama, who hails you gleefully with a Russian
word which he has learned from a Buriat, and points out where the
procession will emerge. A Mongol woman passes, gorgeously dressed in
flowered yellow silk, with red, sable-cuffed sleeves so long as nearly
to touch the ground, and her head cuirassed with the burden of silver
ornaments. She smiles at the burly Mongol camel-driver who so openly
admires her.
A Chinese merchant, with red-buttoned cap, attended by a servant, is
pushing through the crowd. His looks are surly; perhaps he is thinking
of the whereabouts of his own establishment in this carnival.
Though the rich and wifeless Chinese may acquire Mongol companions,
they cannot buy or give affection. For a poor Mongol, who has the
sincerity and humanness which the Chinaman withholds, one of these
Mongol concubines will either deceive her master, or, if he object too
vigorously, will strip herself of his presents and go to her lover’s
_gir_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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