China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
On an urgent call, with special preparations, you may travel for a
hundred hours, night and day, without halt save for change of relays.
Physically, it is possible to fight cold for a time. You can run along
in all your furs beside the horses, you can beat your arms together,
and rub nose and cheeks to keep the blood in motion. You can drink
copious glasses of scalding tea in the post-houses, and live by
stimulants on the road. Through ceaseless vigilance and resolution
you can keep from freezing, even while intense fatigue creeps on and
vitality is going. But the persistent awful shudder is Nature’s red
lantern. Run past it if you must,--it is at your peril.
Dark against the snows, now a low-lying village comes into
sight,--Nijniouboukounskaia,--and among its first log houses is one
bearing the post-horn signboard. A cry rouses the jaded horses to
a gallop, and covered with snow, the sledge sweeps into the yard.
Steaming and frosted white, the animals stand with lowered heads.
Stablemen run to unharness them. Stiff with cold and muffled like a
mummy, you clamber out, and on unsteady legs mount the steps to the
felted door of the posting-inn. In the big bare room, beside the warm
oven, robes and overcoats can be thrown off. A red-capped girl loads
the samovar with glowing brands from the fire, and sets it humming for
tea. Brown bread is produced and eggs, and a great bowl of warm milk.
With these, and the contents of your bag of provisions, can be eked out
a welcome _obeid_.
For the night’s rest one need not seek a bed. There is never a spring
to ease the bones from Verhneudinsk to Kiahta. There was discovered
just once on the journey--at Arbouzarskie--an iron skeleton, bearing
to a spring bed about the relation that the three-toed Pleistocene
prairie trotter holds to a modern horse. The post-keeper had carefully
hewn with his axe five pine planks to cover the gaunt limbs of it. The
voyageur slept on the soft side of these timbers. Bed and board are
synonyms in Siberia.
For a couch there is to-night the narrow wooden law-provided bench,
or--a less precarious perch, and equally resilient--the sanded floor.
For bedding, one has one’s own blankets and coats. What if the shoulder
slept on numbs with one’s weight, or the corner of the soap-box in the
traveling-bag, serving as a pillow, dents the tired head! One draws off
felt boots and some of the outer layers of clothes, rolls the sheepskin
about one, covers the head with a blanket, and sleeps like the forest
bears in their winter dens.
Just before daybreak is the best time to start, so that one can cover
the most road possible while the sun is up. At ten or eleven, an
hour’s stop for lunch is advisable, and then on again until sundown.
It is better not to travel after nightfall, as the cold is so much
more intense. We dedicate the evening to hot tea, and then turn to the
blankets and the bench.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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