China -- Description and travel; Siberia (Russia) -- Description and travel; Velikaia Siberskaia magistral
We are made acquainted with the wife of the host, a stout matron of
fine domestic proclivities. Though of humble origin, she has discarded
her peasant shako and bandana-handkerchief headdress for a bonnet, and
dispenses, as to the manner born, many luxuries. On the other hand,
she has lost the robustness which keeps her peasant sisters fresh and
hearty. Sewing-machines, and beds, and servants, must exact toll even
in Siberia. Her boys are clean-cut and intelligent. They go to school
and are the future “Intellectuals” that are seeding Siberia. Sixteen
children--eleven Nicolai Tobagov’s own, five adopted in open-hearted
generosity--sit down to four very solid meals a day in the big hall.
Ivan Simeonski, _optovie_ and _argove_ merchant, and Nicita Baeschoef
the lieutenant, traveling west on furlough, are stopping in this
friendly house, and many other guests are here. The hospitality of the
household is conducted on a scale of patriarchal magnificence.
Before our furs are fairly off, the host has called aloud for _obeid_.
One’s first formality is, as usual, to salute the ikons and the guests.
One’s second is to escape the scalding vodka, seventy proof, and then
begin with the _zakuska_ of ten cold dishes on the side table. There is
black caviar from the Volga, though the rapid diminution of the supply
has raised the price to ten roubles a pound. There is red caviar from
the Chickoya, cold mutton, cold sturgeon, sardines, ham, and sliced
sausages made at home. The latter must be abundantly and appreciatively
sampled, because they have been specially prepared under the direction
of the _souprouga_ herself. One stands before the _zakuska_ and dips
from dish to dish. Next, the guests take the square wooden stools and
draw up to the great table, where the plates are set for the real
dinner. Each one helps himself to the smoking soup, which is passed
in the tureen. As this is being ladled, a plate of round balls comes
by, the delicious _piroushki_, dough-shells filled with hashed meat,
always served with soup. We have entered upon a typical Siberian meal,
with the boiled soup-meat eaten as the second course, and madeira,
champagne, claret, and rum, indiscriminately offered. A perfect babel
of conversation goes on, and one is pressed to try this, try that, try
each and everything of the long menu, under the watchful eyes of the
kindly host and hostess.
At all times of the day the samovar is left simmering, ready for
any one of the multitudinous household to brew tea, and constantly
replenished _zakuska_ dishes deck the sideboard. Guests, attendants,
children, and friends come and go in the utmost freedom. Such is the
_Hazan’s_ life.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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